nio_707
tips
Ok, here are some critical points that need some extra attention, for the mod to be successful.
1.It proved to be a good idea of using the plastic material of a dvd case as a cap for the cable side of the tube. But also some details on this part need to be considered: 1. The size of the round plastic cap must be cut exactly to fit in the tube rut perfectly so that it locks in it. 2. The cable hole must be as tight as possible in order to hold the cable and give the structure extra durability.
2.We solder the cable to the little PCB circuit, so that the + pole of the cable contacts the PCB spring, and the – pole of the cable contacts the outer circuit line. It’s a good idea to consolidate the cable by melting some silicon glue between the cable and the PCB circuit. And another thing, which is very important! Don’t cut the 2 left cables of the USB (white and green) without caring, thinking that “As long as I won’t use them it won’t be a problem”. That’s wrong, because these cables may not be used, but they need to be protected and insulated so that they won’t contact each other or anything else! You mustn’t forget that these are the DATA USB cables which will be connected to your camera circuits!! Thus a short circuit may prove harmful for your camera! I also used silicon to insulate them.
3.The tricky part is to make sure that this outer circuit line of the PCB contacts with the whole metallic tube, when the cable structure locks in it. You can see in the relevant picture that there is a metallic “stop” where the PCB will stop and won’t go further into the tube. That’s where the contact of – has to be done. To ensure this contact, I soldered little metallic pins and bended them properly, so that they contact the right spot of the tube.
4.The button side is maybe the trickiest part as it requires a specific button that matches with the specific flashlight tube you’re using. And I was lucky enough to find the right one. The button I’ve found has the appropriate length so that it can contact the battery, screw all the way through without the need of a spring on the cap, because as the cap screws, the bottom spring of the PCB board is depressed keeping the contact.
Now here is another important part. Your cable cap (plastic Do-It-Yourself cable cap) needs to clasp and lock into the tube’s rut, so that the cable structure won’t pop-out with the screwing which will apply pressure on the PCB spring. I never had that problem as I was lucky enough to cut the plastic cable cover at the right size so that is locked in the tube and pops out only when I pull the cable and never from the spring pressure. So if you don’t succeed at the first time in cutting the cap correctly, give it another try! One DVD plastic case must be enough! If there won’t be any rut in your tube for the plastic cap to lock into, use another method, like silicon glue or something else to consolidate the cable cap in the tube
These are some useful tips if you’re going to give this a try.
tips
Ok, here are some critical points that need some extra attention, for the mod to be successful.
1.It proved to be a good idea of using the plastic material of a dvd case as a cap for the cable side of the tube. But also some details on this part need to be considered: 1. The size of the round plastic cap must be cut exactly to fit in the tube rut perfectly so that it locks in it. 2. The cable hole must be as tight as possible in order to hold the cable and give the structure extra durability.
2.We solder the cable to the little PCB circuit, so that the + pole of the cable contacts the PCB spring, and the – pole of the cable contacts the outer circuit line. It’s a good idea to consolidate the cable by melting some silicon glue between the cable and the PCB circuit. And another thing, which is very important! Don’t cut the 2 left cables of the USB (white and green) without caring, thinking that “As long as I won’t use them it won’t be a problem”. That’s wrong, because these cables may not be used, but they need to be protected and insulated so that they won’t contact each other or anything else! You mustn’t forget that these are the DATA USB cables which will be connected to your camera circuits!! Thus a short circuit may prove harmful for your camera! I also used silicon to insulate them.
3.The tricky part is to make sure that this outer circuit line of the PCB contacts with the whole metallic tube, when the cable structure locks in it. You can see in the relevant picture that there is a metallic “stop” where the PCB will stop and won’t go further into the tube. That’s where the contact of – has to be done. To ensure this contact, I soldered little metallic pins and bended them properly, so that they contact the right spot of the tube.
4.The button side is maybe the trickiest part as it requires a specific button that matches with the specific flashlight tube you’re using. And I was lucky enough to find the right one. The button I’ve found has the appropriate length so that it can contact the battery, screw all the way through without the need of a spring on the cap, because as the cap screws, the bottom spring of the PCB board is depressed keeping the contact.
Now here is another important part. Your cable cap (plastic Do-It-Yourself cable cap) needs to clasp and lock into the tube’s rut, so that the cable structure won’t pop-out with the screwing which will apply pressure on the PCB spring. I never had that problem as I was lucky enough to cut the plastic cable cover at the right size so that is locked in the tube and pops out only when I pull the cable and never from the spring pressure. So if you don’t succeed at the first time in cutting the cap correctly, give it another try! One DVD plastic case must be enough! If there won’t be any rut in your tube for the plastic cap to lock into, use another method, like silicon glue or something else to consolidate the cable cap in the tube
These are some useful tips if you’re going to give this a try.