Old City of Homs 1912 Syria

homs

 

Hims (Arabic:حمص , transliteration: Ḥims, also spelled Homs and anciently called "Emesa"[1] (Greek: ἡ Ἔμεσα) is a city in western Syria and the capital of the Hims Governorate. It is 501 metres (1,640 ft) above sea level and is located 162 kilometres (101 mi) north of Damascus.[2] Located on the Orontes River, Hims is also the central link between the interior cities and the Mediterranean Sea coast.

 

Hims did not emerge into the light of history until the 1st century BCE at the time of Seleucids. It later became the capital of a kingdom ruled by the Emesani dynasty who gave the city its name. Originally a pagan center of worship for the Sun god El-Gabal, it later gained importance in Christianity under the Byzantines. It was conquered by the Muslims in the 7th century and made capital of a district that bore its current name. Throughout the Islamic era, Muslim dynasties contending for control of Syria sought after Hims due to the city's strategic position in the area. It began to decline under the Ottomans and only in the 19th century did the city regain its economic importance when its cotton industry boomed.

 

Today, Hims is a major industrial center in Syria, and with a population of 823,000, it is the third largest city in the country. Its population reflects Syria's general religious diversity, composed mostly of Arabic-speaking Sunni Muslims, with a Christian minority. The city boasts a number of historic mosques and churches and is near the Krak des Chevaliers, a world heritage site.

 

 

Etymology

"Emesa" is a compound of "Ham-Es", with the Es representing an assemblage of the locally-revered sun god in (El-Gabal) in ancient times.[3] The name "Emesa" or "Hemesa" is also attributed to "Emesenoi", the name of the Arab tribe that ruled the area before its incorporation into the Roman Empire.[4] When the name of the tribe became attached to the city is indiscernible, but is generally thought to have been used under the Romans.[5]

 

"Emesa" was called "Hems" or "Hims" by its Arab inhabitants, many of whom settled there prior to the Muslim conquest of Syria.[5][6] This name has been preserved throughout the period of Islamic rule continuing to the present day. It was known as "la Chamelle" by the Crusaders, although they never ruled the city.[7][8] A second possibility about the origin of the city's modern name is that it is an Arabic form of the city's Latin name "Emesus", derived from the Greek "Emesa" or "Emesos".[9]

 

 

History

For roughly 2,000 years, Hims has served as a key agricultural market, production site, and trade center for the villages of northern Syria. It has also provided security services to the hinterland of Syria, protecting it from invading forces.[5]

 

 

Emesani dynasty and Roman rule The Emesa temple to the sun god El-Gabal, with the holy stone, on the reverse of this bronze coin by Roman usurper Uranius Antoninus

Excavations at the Citadel of Hims indicate that the earliest settlement at the site dates back to around 2300 BCE. Biblical scholars have identified the city with Zobah mentioned in the Bible.[10][5] In 1274 BCE,[11] a battle took place between the forces of the Egyptian Empire under Ramesses II and the Hittite Empire under Muwatalli II at the city of Kadesh on the Orontes River near Hims.[12] It was possibly the largest chariot battle ever fought, involving perhaps 5,000–6,000 chariots.[13][14]

 

Hims itself may have been founded by Seleucus I Nicator who established the Seleucid Empire upon the death of Alexander the Great, though the city did not emerge in the light of history until the 1st century BCE. At this time, Greek philosopher Strabo spoke of a tent-dwelling tribe called the "Emesani" living in the area around the Orontes and south of the Apamea region.[5] They were an Arab tribe in the area and settled in Emesa—which derived its name from them. Upon Pompey's incorporation of the Seleucid state of Syria into the Roman Empire in 64 BCE, the Emesani dynasty were made vassals to the Romans for aiding their troops in various wars. Their chief at the time, Samsigeramus I, gained the status as king of the Emesanis, but their capital was at Arethusa, a city north of Emesa, also along the Orontes River. At its greatest extent, the kingdom's boundaries extended from the Bekaa Valley in the west to the border with Palmyra in the east, and from Yabrud in the south to al-Rastan (Arethusa) in the north. Semsigeramus's kingdom was the first of Rome's Arab clients on the desert fringes.[4]

 

The city of Emesa grew to prominence after the new-found wealth of the Emesani dynasty, governed first by Samsigeramus's son Iamblichus who made it the kingdom's capital.[4] The Emesani proved their loyalty to Rome once more when they aided Caesar in his siege of Alexandria in 41 BCE, by sending him army detachments. Subsequently, they became embroiled in the Roman Civil War between the rebelling Mark Antony and the pro-Caesar Octavian. King Iamblichus took the side of Octavian, and so upon encouragement from Antony, the king's brother Alexas usurped the throne and put him to death in 31 BCE. Octavian's forces prevailed in the war, however, and as a result the kingdom's throne was reverted to Iamblichus II after Alexas was executed for treason. Under his stable rule emerged a new era of peace from 20 BCE and 14 CE, known as Emesa's "golden age". In 32 CE, Heliopolis and the Bekaa Valley came under the kingdom's control.[4]

 

Relations with the Roman government grew closer when King Sohaemus inherited the kingship. Under him, Emesa sent the Roman military a regular levy of archers and assisted them in their siege of Jerusalem in 70 CE. His loyalty to Rome gained the Emesani dynasty little, however; in 75 CE the Kingdom of Emesa was completely incorporated into the Roman Empire, diminishing the dynasty's autonomy. It is unclear whether King Sohaemus abdicated his throne or had died with an incapable heir, prompting the Romans to annex the territory.[15]

 

Some frescoes inside the Church of Saint Elian date back to the 6th century

Under the Romans, Emesa began to show attributes of a Greek city-state and traces of Roman town planning still remain. Its transformation into a major city was completed under the reign of Antoninus Pius (138-161) when Emesa began to mint coins.[5] By the 3rd century, it grew prosperous and well-integrated into the Roman Orient. This was partly due to the marriage of Septimus Severus to a woman from a family of notables based in Emesa. It attained the coveted status as a Roman colonia by Severus, and two other emperors of Severan Dynasty were raised in Emesa. One of them was Elagabalus who served as the high priest at the Temple of El-Gabal, the local sun god. He brought the image of this god, a conical black stone, to the Elagabalium in Rome.[16][17]

 

Emesa also grew wealthy because it formed a link in the eastern trade funneled through Palmyra, however, this dependence also caused the city's downfall when Palmyra sank to insignificance in the 4th century. Nonetheless, Emesa at this time had grown to rank with the important cities of Tyre, Sidon, Beirut, and Damascus. It also continued retain local significance, because it was the market center for the surrounding villages. The city remained a strong center of paganism, because of the Temple of El-Gabal. After one of his victories over Zenobia, emperor Aurelian visited the city to pay thanks to the deity.[16]

 

Due to the strength of the pagan sun-cult in Emesa, Christians initially did not settle in the city. Eusibius writes that Silvanus, the city's first bishop, had no jurisdiction over the city, but the surrounding villages. He was executed aside Emperor Julian and succeeded by Bishop Antonius—the first bishop to settle Emesa.[18] By the 5th century, Christianity was well-established under the Byzantine Empire; however, few ancient Christian inscriptions exist in Hims today.[16] Under the Byzantines, it became an important center for Eastern Christianity.[19] Initially a diocese, Hims was given the status of ecclesiastical metropolis after the discovery John the Baptist's head in a nearby area in 452.[16]

 

 

Arab Caliphate The mausoleum of Khalid ibn al-Walid is in a mosque in Hims that bears his name

Prior to the Muslim conquest of Syria, Arab tribes, particularly the Banu Kalb settled around Emesa, ensuring its position as an important Yemeni center. The Byzantine emperor Heraclius abandoned the city—which served as his headquarters[20]—after the defeat of his army to that of the Rashidun Muslims under Umar ibn al-Khattab during the Battle of Yarmouk in southern Syria. In 637 CE, the Rashidun army led by Khalid ibn al-Walid captured Emesa peacefully as the city agreed to pay a substantial ransom of 71,000 to 170,000 dinars.[16][21][22] Afterward, they renamed the city "Hims". The caliph Umar established Hims as the capital of Jund Hims, a district within the province of Bilad ash-Sham, encompassing the towns of Latakia, Jableh, and Tartus along the coast, as well as the Palmyra in the Syrian Desert and the territory in between, including the town of Hama.[23] Hims was probably the first city in Syria to have a substantial Muslim population.[24]

 

The Muslims transformed half of St. John's Church into the city's Friday Mosque (Great Mosque of al-Nuri) and Hims soon became a center of Islamic piety since some 500 companions of Muhammad settled there after its conquest.[16] The tombs of Ibn al-Walid, his son Abd ar-Rahman, and Ubaid Allah, the son of Umar are located in the city.[25] During the conflict between the Umayyads and Ali, the inhabitants of Hims allied themselves with Ali and when the latter was defeated, the Umayyad caliph Mu'awiyah hived the northern half of Jund Hims to form a separate district, Jund Qinnasrin, apparently as punishment.[16] Ali's oratory (mash-had 'Ali) was located in the city, and Islamic tradition claims his fingerprints are engraved on it.[22] Despite repression by the Umayyads, Hims remained a center of Shia Islam for a while longer. As a stronghold of the Banu Kalb, the city became involved in its conflicts with the Qais tribal faction. The last Umayyad caliph, Marwan II, enjoyed the support of the latter tribe and subsequently razed the city walls. In 750 CE the Abbasids wrested control of Syria, including Hims, from the Umayyads, but the Arab tribes continued to revolt against the Caliphate.[16]

 

The interior of the Great Mosque of al-Nuri

During the reign of caliph Harun al-Rashid from 796 to 809 and after his reign, the Abbasid authorities sent numerous punitive expeditions against Hims and although the city was quite prosperous in this era, Abbasid rule was generally not welcomed.[16] Under the reign of al-Mutawakkil, in October 855, an uprising by the Christians of the city erupted in response to additional taxation. The caliph put down the revolt by expelling Christians from the city, burning down its churches, and executing members of its leadership.[26] With Abbasid rule over the Caliphate weakening in the mid-9th century, Hims became sought after by rebel dynasties contending for control of Syria due to the city's strategic position.[16]

 

Initially, the Egypt-based Tulunids came into control of it, but they were forced out by the Aleppo-based Hamdanids who were briefly succeeded by the Qarmatians,[16] after their Turkish rebel ally Aftakin invaded northern Syria and made Hims his base.[27] In 891 CE, geographer al-Yaqubi wrote that Hims was situated along a broad river from which the inhabitants drink.[28] It was one of the largest cities in Syria and had several smaller districts surrounding it. In 944, the Hamdanids took definitive control of the city dominated it until 1016.[16] Arab geographer al-Mas'udi noted in the early 10th century, that Hims was "noted for the personal beauty of its inhabitants".[28] In 985, al-Muqaddasi claimed that Hims was the largest city in all of Syria, but it had suffered "great misfortunes" and was "threatened with ruin". He stated that when the city was conquered by the Muslims they turned half of its church into a mosque.[29]

 

For roughly thirty years during the 10th century, Hims was raided by the Byzantines and its inhabitants were subject to slaughter and plunder and the city's mosque was briefly restored to become a church. Throughout most of the 11th century, the Byzantine raids receded greatly and the Mirdasids of the Banu Kalb tribe ruled over Hims, replacing the Hamdanids. Inclined towards Shia Islam, they did not oppose the Shia Fatimids of Egypt who were aiming to extend their rule into northern Syria and Iraq at the time. This precipitated a Sunni reaction led by the Seljuk Turks who occupied Hims under Aq Sunqur al-Hajib in 1090.[16]

 

 

Seljuk, Ayyubid, and Mamluk rule Romantic illustration of Hims by Louis-Francois Cassas. The artist in the foreground is shown sketching the Citadel of Hims, surrounded by his guards and the inquisitive locals

The First Crusade was launched in 1096, and in 1098, the Crusaders captured Antioch to the northeast, looted Ma'arat al-Numan, and finally besieged Hims itself. Although they managed to cut the city off from its main port Tartus, they failed in taking the city. Soon after, Hims came under the control of the Seljuk ruler of Damascus who turned it into a large, fortified camp and key fortress effectively preventing the Crusaders from penetrating deeper into Muslim territory. Immune from attack, the city became a point where the Muslims could marshal their forces and launch raids against Crusader holds along the Mediterranean coast.[16] In the early 12th century, the Seljuks affianced in internal fighting, during which Hims was often a prize. In 1149, the Mosul-based Zengids under Nur al-Din captured Hims in 1149.[30]

 

al-Idrisi reports in 1154, that the city was populous, had paved streets, possessed one of the largest mosques in Syria, contained open markets, and was frequented by travelers attracted to its "products and rarities of all kinds". He also noted that its residents were "pleasant; living with them is easy, and their manners are agreeable. The women are beautiful and are celebrated for their fine skin."[31] A series of earthquakes in 1157 inflicted heavy damage upon Hims and its fortress, then in 1170, a minor quake finished off the latter. Yet because of its strategic importance, being opposite of the Crusader County of Tripoli, the city and its fortifications were soon restored. In 1164, Nur al-Din handed Hims over to Asad ad-Din Shirkuh as a fief, but reclaimed it five years later after Shirkuh's death. The latter's nephew, Saladin, came into control of the city in 1175 and in 1179, after reorganizing northern Syria, he restored the fief to his Ayyubid dynasty who retained it for nearly a century until 1262. In 1225, geographer Yaqut al-Hamawi mentioned that Hims was large, "celebrated", and walled, having a strongly fortified castle on its southern hill.[22]

 

During the later Ayyubid period of rule, Hims remained a centerpiece of the wars between them and the Crusaders, as well as internecine conflicts with the Mongol Empire and the Mamluks.[30] The first battle between the Mongols and the Mamluks took place on December 10, 1260, ending in a decisive Mamluk victory. A second battle was fought on October 29, 1281, also ending in a Mamluk victory. The Mamluks were finally defeated in the Battle of Wadi al-Khazandar, also known as the "Third Battle of Hims", in 1299.

 

Hims declined politically after falling to the Mamluks under Baibars because they effectively drove out the Crusaders and Mongols from the entirety of Syria. At the beginning of the 14th century, the city was merely the capital of the smallest province of Syria and was often included in the province of Damascus.[30] Ibn Batuta visited Hims in 1355, writing that it had fine trees, good markets, and a "fine Friday Mosque", noting that all of its inhabitants were Arabs.[32] Timur seized the city in 1400, and later in the 15th century as Mamluk weakness had brought insecurity to the countryside, Hims was ravaged by Bedouin raids; In 1510, the powerful tribe led by al-Fadl bin Nu'ayr were sent on an expedition by the governor of Damascus to loot the city markets as Hims had failed to pay for his "services".[30]

 

 

Ottoman rule Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque, an example of Ottoman architecture in Hims See also: Ottoman Syria

In 1516, Hims was incorporated into the Ottoman Empire and consequently suffered a greater political eclipse, but it continued to thrive as an economic center, processing the agricultural and pastoral products that flowed to it from surrounding districts.[33] Hims was particularly well-known for silk and wool weaving, especially the alaja, which was mottled muslin run through with gold threads and used in feminine apparel. This silk was exported to as far as the Ottoman capital Istanbul. In addition to weaving industries, there were olive oil presses and water mills for wheat and sesame, while grapes and rice, grown in the surrounding marshlands from the 16th century, were found in abundance in the city's markets. Moreover, the markets of Hims were the center of a trade in animal, where flocks of sheep and goats coming from Aleppo met camels and cows moving north from Damascus.[30]

 

The coming of the Ottomans brought administrative change to Hims, now becoming the center of a sanjak ("district") attached to the wilaya ("province") of Tripoli—its old rival.[34] At this time, a French visitor noted that the city walls and citadel were in good repair, all within was in decay and only its covered markets "retained their beauty". French traveler, Volney wrote in 1785 of the city's one_time great importance and its current "miserable" condition. He described it as large, but ruined village administratively dependent on Damascus. The Ottomans did little to revitalize Hims or ensure it security against Bedouin raids. Tribal unrest throughout the 17th and 18th centuries resulted in the sacking of its markets on several occasions. Security was even more hampered, when in the 18th century, the Ottomans tore down the gates of the city's walls.[30]

 

The countryside of Hims saw an increase in Bedouin ravages in the first half of the 19th century, interrupted by it and Syria's occupation by Muhammad Ali's Egypt led by Ibrahim Pasha between 1832 and 1840.[35][33] The city revolted against Egyptian rule, and its citadel was destroyed when the Egyptians were suppressing the revolt. Ottoman rule was soon restored and up to the 1860s, Hims was large enough to form a discrete economic unit of trade and processing of agricultural products from its satellite villages and the neighboring Bedouin tribe.[30]

 

The local economy was stimulated when the Ottoman government extended security to the city and its surrounding area; new villages were established and old ones were resettled. Hims found itself faced with European economic competition since Ottoman rule was restored. Hims' economic importance was boosted again during the depression of the 1870s, as its cotton industry boomed due to a decline European textile production. The quality and design of cotton goods from Hims satisfied both the lower and upper classes of the local, Ottoman, and even the foreign market. There were around 5,000 looms in Hims and nearby Hama, and one British consul referred to Hims as the "Manchester of Syria".[30]

 

 

Modern era A street in downtown Hims

Throughout the 20th century Hims held high political importance in the country and was home to several heads of state and other high-ranking government officials.[30]

 

Under the French mandate Hims was part of the State of Damascus. In Autumn 1925, the city joined Damascus and the southern Druze chieftains in a full-blown revolt against French rule.[36] In 1932 the French moved their military academy from Damascus to Hims, which was the only military academy in Syria until 1967.[37] The Hims Military Academy played a major role in the years following the independence, as many of its graduates went on to become high ranked officers in the Syrian Army and many of them took part in the series of coup d'états that were to follow. Most important of them was Hafez Assad who was to become the president of Syria from 1971 until his death in 2000.[38]

 

An oil pipeline between Tripoli and Kirkuk was built in Hims in the early 1930s and it followed ancient caravan route between Palmyra and the Mediterranean. 1n 1959, an oil refinery was built to process some of this oil for consumption by Syria.[30] Israel bombed the Hims oil refinery during the Yom Kippur war in 1973.[38] The city flourished under the newly formed Syrian state due to its central location and partial destruction of its rival city Hamah in 1982 when Hafez al-Assad ordered the Syrian army to quell the Muslim Brotherhood rebellion.

 

 

Geography

The Governorate of Hims is the largest in Syria. Hims, the governorate's capital, is located in central western Syria, situated along the east bank of the Orontes River in a particularly fertile area. The city is in between the southern outliers of Jabal Ansayriya located to its west and Mount Lebanon, overlooking the Hims Gap. Because of the gap, the area around Hims receives much more rainfall than interior regions to its north and south.[37] To the east of Hims, is the Syrian Desert. Lake Hims is to the southwest, lying some 125 kilometers (78 mi) south of Aleppo and 34 kilometers (21 mi) south of Hama, halfway on the road between the capital Damascus and Aleppo.[5] The Orontes River splits the city into two main sections: To the east, on a flat land lies the city center and the main neighborhoods; to the west, lies the more recent and modern suburb of al-Waer. The city spans an area of 4,800 hectares (19 sq mi).[39]

 

Hims is located 162 kilometres (101 mi) north of Damascus, 193 kilometres (120 mi) south from Aleppo, 47 kilometres (29 mi) south Hama, and 186 kilometres (116 mi) southeast from Latakia.[2] Nearby towns and villages include al-Qusayr to the south, Fairouzeh to the southeast, Marmarita and Zweitina to the west, Qatna to the northeast and Ar-Rastan to the north.

 

 

Old City and subdivisions The Atassi quarter in the Old City of Hims A building in the neighborhood of al-Mahatta See also: Gates of Hims

The Old City is the most condensed area of Hims, and it includes the neighborhoods of Bab Tadmur, Bab al-Dreib, and Bab Hud and the area around the citadel, covering an area of 1.2 square kilometres (0.46 sq mi).[39] Little remains of the Old City; its walls and gates were demolished in the Ottoman era, but a short section of fortified wall with a circular corner tower still exists. Half a kilometer to the south, a large earth mound marks the site where the citadel once stood.[40] To the north of the citadel lies the Christian Quarter, known as "al-Hamidiyah".[41] This neighborhood is one of the few areas of Hims that retains its older look, with most of the black-and-white stone buildings dating from the Mamluk era. They are still used as shops and dwellings, and there has been recent renovation.[42]

 

At the time of the Abbasids, Hims was known for its seven gates. They were Bab al-Souq (Gate of the Market), Bab Tadmor (Gate of Palmyra), Bab al-Dreib (or Bab al-Deir), Bab al-Sebaa (Gate of the Lions), Bab al-Turkman (Gate of the Turkmen), Bab al-Masdoud (Closed Door), and Bab Hud (The Gate of Hud).[30] Only two gates—Bab Tadmor and Bab al-Dreib—remain today.[43] The oldest of Hims' mosques and churches are located in the Old City.[40]

 

Hims consists of several subdivisions outside the Old City. The large neighborhood of Khaldiyah spreads along its northern edge, while the more modern neighborhoods of al-Sabeel, al-Zahra, and Jub al-Jandali are situated to the east of the Old City. South of it are the neighborhoods of Bab al-Sebaa, al-Mreijeh, al-Nezha, Akrama and beyond them lay the Karm al-Zaytoun and Karm al-Loz neighborhoods.[41] The modern commercial center lies to the west in the neighborhood of Jouret al-Shayyah, and further west are the upscale neighborhoods of Qusoor, al-Mahatta and al-Ghouta. The suburb of al-Waer is located even further west, separated from the city by areas of farmland called al-Basateen and the Orontes river forming a green belt where it is forbidden to build anything.[41] The al-Baath University complex and dormitories are located on the western-southern edge of the city next to the neighborhood of Akrama.[41]

 

 

Climate

Hims' location ensures that it receives softening influences and breezes from the Mediterranean Sea . As a result, the city has a much milder climate than nearby Hama, with higher average rainfall of 18 inches (457.2 mm) instead of 14 inches (355.6 mm), but it also experiences greater winds.[5]

 

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