lellisknits
Red Velvet Muslin1 side2
Measurements
Upper bust: 37.5
Full bust: 44
Bust length: 17
Underbust: 35.5
Waist: 39
Bodice: 35 D (graded out to F at the side of the front); finished full bust should be 42.5"
Bust Length: Added 4", bringing finished length to 15.25"
Added extra bust pleat to account for all the extra width on the midriff seam.
Forward shoulder adjustment & added bicep circumference
Next steps & thoughts:
1) Maybe remove 1/2-1 inch of the deep bust alteration? I LOVE that I finally have a dress where the seam line hits underneath my bust, against my torso - but from the side pics it's maybe a little too long. Or maybe I just need less of a curve where I connected the side seam to the DBA.
2) I do think I need all the added horizontal room from grading out to an F - even with stretch it is definitely snug. However, something's got to change with the pleats, FOR SURE. First thing I've done on my pattern piece (for muslin 2, I think) taken some of the fullness from the pattern's pleat - the one front & center under the apex - and added a third pleat in between the two shown here, but I think I may wind up needing to just convert to darts, especially since it looks like I'm going to need to fully line my dress, since the fabric is a little sheer in the white areas. I also think the side pleat/dart should NOT be folded towards CF - looks better for the main please, but awful for the side.
3) I've already lowered the neckline by an extra 2", so it's more comfortable for me and I don't have this vast expanse of chest above the full bust line.
4) Need to add more fullness to the bicep front. There's room to spare if I don't move my arm forward, but it binds if I do.
5) Hard to tell in these pics but there's about an inch of extra fabric at the waist, may pinch some of that out before I try to attach the skirt.
Red Velvet Muslin1 side2
Measurements
Upper bust: 37.5
Full bust: 44
Bust length: 17
Underbust: 35.5
Waist: 39
Bodice: 35 D (graded out to F at the side of the front); finished full bust should be 42.5"
Bust Length: Added 4", bringing finished length to 15.25"
Added extra bust pleat to account for all the extra width on the midriff seam.
Forward shoulder adjustment & added bicep circumference
Next steps & thoughts:
1) Maybe remove 1/2-1 inch of the deep bust alteration? I LOVE that I finally have a dress where the seam line hits underneath my bust, against my torso - but from the side pics it's maybe a little too long. Or maybe I just need less of a curve where I connected the side seam to the DBA.
2) I do think I need all the added horizontal room from grading out to an F - even with stretch it is definitely snug. However, something's got to change with the pleats, FOR SURE. First thing I've done on my pattern piece (for muslin 2, I think) taken some of the fullness from the pattern's pleat - the one front & center under the apex - and added a third pleat in between the two shown here, but I think I may wind up needing to just convert to darts, especially since it looks like I'm going to need to fully line my dress, since the fabric is a little sheer in the white areas. I also think the side pleat/dart should NOT be folded towards CF - looks better for the main please, but awful for the side.
3) I've already lowered the neckline by an extra 2", so it's more comfortable for me and I don't have this vast expanse of chest above the full bust line.
4) Need to add more fullness to the bicep front. There's room to spare if I don't move my arm forward, but it binds if I do.
5) Hard to tell in these pics but there's about an inch of extra fabric at the waist, may pinch some of that out before I try to attach the skirt.