Bud75
Basic Van Drawing
Notes for guidance in scratch building rolling stock
Drawing can be used to build from single side wagon upwards, suggest four plank as max. If you use cut down pins to represent bolts make sure the plank thickness is greater than the pin plus strapping or they come through to the interior. All the strapping, hinges and added detail are from various sections of wood, sanded and shaped where required. It may be preferred to represent the strapping with quality card.
Main measurements apart from depth of solebar, are not cast in concrete. If you are operating small (narrow) locos the width can be reduced at the same time reduce the length to keep general ratio of L to W. I have made short wheel base models up to at least 2 inches shorter using same width.
In order to introduce variety in ones stock, the ends may be made level or curved. Smallish cans are useful in finding a suitable diameter, the smaller the can the higher the centre of the end. The strapping on the end can be a single piece of wood or two at right angles forming an angle iron effect. It can also include the buffer beam or finish immediately above it. If you wish you can make cuts on the interior of the body where doors are fitted, or just paint interior matt black.
All my models use individual planks as per the supposed prototype but planks can be suggested by scribing a piece of wood to represent the whole side or end.
Where one plank sits on another the edge should be bevelled in order to accentuate that there are separate planks otherwise when painted it could appear as one piece of wood. If you feel you need some pins to support the Resin W, I suggest Peco 00 track pins, very sharp and almost invisible.
Depth of solebar alters coupling/buffer height suggest 12mm minimum and 15mm max. Mine are 5mm thick. There is a suggested coupling height in the Association of 24mm.
I have generally shown on the sketch’s two pin heads (Bolts) where the strapping crosses the planks, on my models I have sometimes only put one, it looks o.k. but I don’t think authentic.
When completed paint to the colour scheme of your choice, mine are light grey with black ironwork. If transfers are to be applied, cover with GLOSS varnish, let dry, apply transfers then finish in MATT varnish.
I have drilled two holes in each wagon floor and bolted underneath a piece of flat iron bar to give some low weight. Could have been glued. Brandbright axleguards with the coil springs look ok. especially on smaller vehicles. I like the curved spoke plastic centre wheels, which should allow running on electric track.
I built my basic van on a ply carcase with the planking as an overlay. The drawing shows that one can choose to have the planks either vertical or horizontal. The strapping to the ends can vary on which method is chosen. With vertical planks it can be a single strap across the centre or a “V” shape from the bottom centre to the top corners. If horizontal the single strap could be vertical up the centre.
I made the floor slightly smaller than that used on wagons as I made the body overlap the floor and extend 1/8 inch below it. The strapping and hinges are made in the same way as for a wagon.
Charles ABBOTT 2007
Basic Van Drawing
Notes for guidance in scratch building rolling stock
Drawing can be used to build from single side wagon upwards, suggest four plank as max. If you use cut down pins to represent bolts make sure the plank thickness is greater than the pin plus strapping or they come through to the interior. All the strapping, hinges and added detail are from various sections of wood, sanded and shaped where required. It may be preferred to represent the strapping with quality card.
Main measurements apart from depth of solebar, are not cast in concrete. If you are operating small (narrow) locos the width can be reduced at the same time reduce the length to keep general ratio of L to W. I have made short wheel base models up to at least 2 inches shorter using same width.
In order to introduce variety in ones stock, the ends may be made level or curved. Smallish cans are useful in finding a suitable diameter, the smaller the can the higher the centre of the end. The strapping on the end can be a single piece of wood or two at right angles forming an angle iron effect. It can also include the buffer beam or finish immediately above it. If you wish you can make cuts on the interior of the body where doors are fitted, or just paint interior matt black.
All my models use individual planks as per the supposed prototype but planks can be suggested by scribing a piece of wood to represent the whole side or end.
Where one plank sits on another the edge should be bevelled in order to accentuate that there are separate planks otherwise when painted it could appear as one piece of wood. If you feel you need some pins to support the Resin W, I suggest Peco 00 track pins, very sharp and almost invisible.
Depth of solebar alters coupling/buffer height suggest 12mm minimum and 15mm max. Mine are 5mm thick. There is a suggested coupling height in the Association of 24mm.
I have generally shown on the sketch’s two pin heads (Bolts) where the strapping crosses the planks, on my models I have sometimes only put one, it looks o.k. but I don’t think authentic.
When completed paint to the colour scheme of your choice, mine are light grey with black ironwork. If transfers are to be applied, cover with GLOSS varnish, let dry, apply transfers then finish in MATT varnish.
I have drilled two holes in each wagon floor and bolted underneath a piece of flat iron bar to give some low weight. Could have been glued. Brandbright axleguards with the coil springs look ok. especially on smaller vehicles. I like the curved spoke plastic centre wheels, which should allow running on electric track.
I built my basic van on a ply carcase with the planking as an overlay. The drawing shows that one can choose to have the planks either vertical or horizontal. The strapping to the ends can vary on which method is chosen. With vertical planks it can be a single strap across the centre or a “V” shape from the bottom centre to the top corners. If horizontal the single strap could be vertical up the centre.
I made the floor slightly smaller than that used on wagons as I made the body overlap the floor and extend 1/8 inch below it. The strapping and hinges are made in the same way as for a wagon.
Charles ABBOTT 2007