carter.d.cook29
Tie Fighter_New Parts Only_2
I bought the instructions for Jerac's Tie Fighter about two years ago, but before I bought the pieces, I wanted to try tweaking the design in Stud.IO to better match its on-screen appearance. I've continued modifying the design even after I built the physical model, with each extra tweak expanding the scope of the project. I currently have a Tie Fighter that, while still sharing the original model's bones, is nonetheless significantly altered.
Wing Struts
The armor panels have been remade for more visual cohesiveness and screen accuracy. The space constraints of the new construction necessitated a new approach to the sloped pieces that lie between the panels. The ones near the central pod are now made using 1x4 Slopes and are held in place with only a 1 stud connection. They maintain their stability by resting on top of the 1x2 30 Degree Slopes I incorporated into the struts to give them a rounder look. The lengths of the long slopes and the wedge plates near the wings were changed to better reflect their positioning and size relative to the other visual elements on the struts. While this decision leaves both elements slightly over and undersized, they come the closest that can be represented in Lego using a plate-based construction for the core of the struts.
Wings
I've redone the visual detailing for the wing hubs while leaving the support structure relatively unchanged. Jerac's construction method emphasized a balance between greebling and overall appearance, but this resulted in noticeable gaps in the hubs and a squished, hexagonal shape. I modified the wing hubs to make a gap-less, regular hexagon that fits in an 8x8 space. The wing panels were slightly modified for more stability using groups of 1x1 Bricks w/ Holes connected by Technic pins. These preserve the vertical panel lining of the original while providing as much stability as longer horizontal bricks. Finally, I unified the construction of all the wing panel struts. They are all now 2 plates tall and capped with a curved slope leading into the wing's outermost border. I tried to go for a smoother appearance since 1 plate thick wing struts are impossible to make while also serving as support for the wing panels.
Central Pod - Front
I covered up a small gap in the upper cockpit flap using 1x3 Jumper Tiles. The cannon assemblies use a modified version of the build method I recently saw on Brickvault's Tie X1, though the cannons themselves require the builder commit the ultimate sin of MOC design: part modification. They are made by cutting a length of flex tube to roughly twice the thickness of a horizontal clip piece. This kind of modification is something Lego has instructed the builder to do in some sets before, so I count it as a “legal” move, if not exactly smiled upon. This method results in the most accurate placement, size, and shape of any method I've seen for representing cannons recessed into a curved surface.
Central Pod – Bottom
A detail of the original model that irked me is that the top hatch sits flush with the top of the central pod and lines up with the slopes on either side of it, while the same area on the bottom of the ship was made with curved slopes. I was able to provide the half-plate recess necessary for a 4x4 Dish on the bottom to mirror the appearance of the top, though this one change required a substantial internal alteration. One of the two connections holding the central pod together stood in the way of creating the recess, but I figured out a compromise. By making the connecting plate 1 stud wide instead of two leaves space under the pilot's chair to run a sort of scaffolding to the 4x4 Dish's correct location. The scaffolding itself isn't very sturdy, but it only has to hold the dish in place; support is provided by all the pieces the dish now rests flush against. Aside from looking good, this construction method is strong enough to support the weight of the entire model resting on its stand. Additionally, the whole pod is now 2 plates thicker to give a more spherical appearance compared to the original model. It's a detail you can't unsee once you spot it, especially when the model is placed next to other Brickvault Ties.
Central Pod – Back
The original construction of the engines used hollow, round studs slid over the vertical arm of modified 1x2 Plates to represent exhaust. While I like the effect, and tried to keep it in my revisions, this method of construction keeps the thrusters from being flush with the central pod's curved surface, as well as either too close or too far apart. I used a modified version of the “bow tie” detailing on the front of the pod to represent the thrusters, a trait shared with the on-screen Tie Fighter models. Regarding the rearmost portion of the ship, the original model uses 1x2 30m Degree Slopes to create the hexagonal rear window. However, the window is shown to be flush with the surface of the central pod in official depictions, meaning a redesign was needed. I wasn't satisfied with any solution I tried that used slope bricks to make the hexagonal window pattern. None of them were flat enough to match the source material, so I had to resort to the second greatest sin of MOC creation: a custom sticker. That said, I think it turned out pretty well. There are two graphical file for the custom sticker: one can be printed on standard letter-sized sticker paper in an inkjet printer, while the other can be used with software for devices like a Cricut sticker printer.
If you’re interested in building this modification yourself, I’ve created a free set of upgrade instructions that can be used alongside the original model’s instructions to create this modified Tie Fighter. Since this is a third-party modification of premium instructions, I’ve taken multiple steps to maintain the need for the original set of instructions. The new instructions (with a few exceptions) only show where to place pieces unique to the upgraded model, meaning you can’t build the full Tie Fighter as shown without also owning a copy of the original instructions from Brickvault. Furthermore, all pieces that are unchanged from the original model are rendered in dark purple and blurred to the point of near-complete obfuscation. I went to all this effort because I feel Jerac’s Tie Fighter is currently the best minifigure scale representation of the ship available, and I want to share my modifications of it with others while still respecting the original creator and owners.
Let me know what you all think!
______________________________
Upgrade Instructions: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1BLRNudwPExbXnkETsxQVIfZLg...
Original Instructions: www.brickvault.toys/products/tie-fighter-minifig-scale?_p...
Tie Fighter_New Parts Only_2
I bought the instructions for Jerac's Tie Fighter about two years ago, but before I bought the pieces, I wanted to try tweaking the design in Stud.IO to better match its on-screen appearance. I've continued modifying the design even after I built the physical model, with each extra tweak expanding the scope of the project. I currently have a Tie Fighter that, while still sharing the original model's bones, is nonetheless significantly altered.
Wing Struts
The armor panels have been remade for more visual cohesiveness and screen accuracy. The space constraints of the new construction necessitated a new approach to the sloped pieces that lie between the panels. The ones near the central pod are now made using 1x4 Slopes and are held in place with only a 1 stud connection. They maintain their stability by resting on top of the 1x2 30 Degree Slopes I incorporated into the struts to give them a rounder look. The lengths of the long slopes and the wedge plates near the wings were changed to better reflect their positioning and size relative to the other visual elements on the struts. While this decision leaves both elements slightly over and undersized, they come the closest that can be represented in Lego using a plate-based construction for the core of the struts.
Wings
I've redone the visual detailing for the wing hubs while leaving the support structure relatively unchanged. Jerac's construction method emphasized a balance between greebling and overall appearance, but this resulted in noticeable gaps in the hubs and a squished, hexagonal shape. I modified the wing hubs to make a gap-less, regular hexagon that fits in an 8x8 space. The wing panels were slightly modified for more stability using groups of 1x1 Bricks w/ Holes connected by Technic pins. These preserve the vertical panel lining of the original while providing as much stability as longer horizontal bricks. Finally, I unified the construction of all the wing panel struts. They are all now 2 plates tall and capped with a curved slope leading into the wing's outermost border. I tried to go for a smoother appearance since 1 plate thick wing struts are impossible to make while also serving as support for the wing panels.
Central Pod - Front
I covered up a small gap in the upper cockpit flap using 1x3 Jumper Tiles. The cannon assemblies use a modified version of the build method I recently saw on Brickvault's Tie X1, though the cannons themselves require the builder commit the ultimate sin of MOC design: part modification. They are made by cutting a length of flex tube to roughly twice the thickness of a horizontal clip piece. This kind of modification is something Lego has instructed the builder to do in some sets before, so I count it as a “legal” move, if not exactly smiled upon. This method results in the most accurate placement, size, and shape of any method I've seen for representing cannons recessed into a curved surface.
Central Pod – Bottom
A detail of the original model that irked me is that the top hatch sits flush with the top of the central pod and lines up with the slopes on either side of it, while the same area on the bottom of the ship was made with curved slopes. I was able to provide the half-plate recess necessary for a 4x4 Dish on the bottom to mirror the appearance of the top, though this one change required a substantial internal alteration. One of the two connections holding the central pod together stood in the way of creating the recess, but I figured out a compromise. By making the connecting plate 1 stud wide instead of two leaves space under the pilot's chair to run a sort of scaffolding to the 4x4 Dish's correct location. The scaffolding itself isn't very sturdy, but it only has to hold the dish in place; support is provided by all the pieces the dish now rests flush against. Aside from looking good, this construction method is strong enough to support the weight of the entire model resting on its stand. Additionally, the whole pod is now 2 plates thicker to give a more spherical appearance compared to the original model. It's a detail you can't unsee once you spot it, especially when the model is placed next to other Brickvault Ties.
Central Pod – Back
The original construction of the engines used hollow, round studs slid over the vertical arm of modified 1x2 Plates to represent exhaust. While I like the effect, and tried to keep it in my revisions, this method of construction keeps the thrusters from being flush with the central pod's curved surface, as well as either too close or too far apart. I used a modified version of the “bow tie” detailing on the front of the pod to represent the thrusters, a trait shared with the on-screen Tie Fighter models. Regarding the rearmost portion of the ship, the original model uses 1x2 30m Degree Slopes to create the hexagonal rear window. However, the window is shown to be flush with the surface of the central pod in official depictions, meaning a redesign was needed. I wasn't satisfied with any solution I tried that used slope bricks to make the hexagonal window pattern. None of them were flat enough to match the source material, so I had to resort to the second greatest sin of MOC creation: a custom sticker. That said, I think it turned out pretty well. There are two graphical file for the custom sticker: one can be printed on standard letter-sized sticker paper in an inkjet printer, while the other can be used with software for devices like a Cricut sticker printer.
If you’re interested in building this modification yourself, I’ve created a free set of upgrade instructions that can be used alongside the original model’s instructions to create this modified Tie Fighter. Since this is a third-party modification of premium instructions, I’ve taken multiple steps to maintain the need for the original set of instructions. The new instructions (with a few exceptions) only show where to place pieces unique to the upgraded model, meaning you can’t build the full Tie Fighter as shown without also owning a copy of the original instructions from Brickvault. Furthermore, all pieces that are unchanged from the original model are rendered in dark purple and blurred to the point of near-complete obfuscation. I went to all this effort because I feel Jerac’s Tie Fighter is currently the best minifigure scale representation of the ship available, and I want to share my modifications of it with others while still respecting the original creator and owners.
Let me know what you all think!
______________________________
Upgrade Instructions: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1BLRNudwPExbXnkETsxQVIfZLg...
Original Instructions: www.brickvault.toys/products/tie-fighter-minifig-scale?_p...