Sorely in need of help: the Romanesque church of Condé-sur-Arnon
If the lover of old stones that I am is always delighted to find a monument «dans son jus», as we say in French (literally, “in its own juices”, meaning in its original –and often run down– state), full of authenticity and atmosphere, and allowing one to “read” its history just by looking at the shape, size and appareling of the stones, it is also true that sadness often comes into play as one acknowledges the decades, if not the centuries, of neglect and dereliction suffered by some of the finest pieces of our heritage.
The Romanesque church of Condé-sur-Arnon (département of Cher in the old province of Berry, central France), dedicated to Saint Dennis, is deemed to have been built, for its oldest parts, during the 11th century. My opinion is that this is a Year 1000 church, as attested by the flat apse and small apparel. Likewise, the archaic capitals, with motifs full of faith and of a touching naivety, far from the æstheticism and sophistication of large urban churches. This is a humble countryside church, yet it features some very interesting architectural and artistic traits that set it apart.
The misfortune of this church was the 1844 merger (at a time when this sort of procedure was not at all in fashion!) of Condé with the neighboring village of La Celle. The latter’s church was retained as the new parish church, and Saint Dennis was simply abandoned. As explained on the Wikipedia page devoted to this church, “the monument leaves an impression of desolation. As a matter of fact, when one compares current indoor views with those described by Deshoulières in 1931, the resemblance is striking.” Listed as a Historic Landmark as early as 1862, the church was probably not maintained at all until the 1990s, when it benefited from some emergency restoration works, mostly woodwork and roofing, thanks to a mayor mindful of heritage issues.
This church’s main originality lays in the fact that the choir and apse are raised almost two meters above nave level, as is sometimes seen in monastic churches (e.g., the Benedictine abbey church of Cruas in Ardèche, southeastern France). Totally bare, the nave is decorated with several Mediæval alfresco paintings (the Danse macabre could be early Renaissance) that are in a pitiful state, eaten away by dampness. The ceiling is a simple wood vault from the 1780s, but considering how the side walls lean outwards, I am convinced that this church was originally stone vaulted.
The choir, while of a great sobriety, is decorated with very harmonious and well-proportioned blind arcatures, and bathed in a typically Romanesque, soft and unusually plentiful light. It still retains its barrel vault.
Below the choir and apse is a semi-undergound crypt reachable via two low and dark tunnels running along the side walls. The floor plan is basilical and copies that of the choir. Light is scarce as the windows are very small. I had to use flash to light it properly for the photos. There are six columns but only one of the capitals’ faces is partly decorated, showing a naive and pure feminine visage with archaic traits. The faces of the other capitals seem to have been prepared for sculpture but none was ever undertaken. Contrary to the walls of the church itself which are of mediocre quality, the crypt is entirely appareled in very nicely cut stones.
All in all, and aside from some very eroded modillions, the only sculpted decoration can be found around the western portal, which features four short columns supporting the voussures, which are made of harmonious but bare arch stones. The four capitals are quite rough, archaic in their manner as most of what can be seen in this very old church. The motifs mix daily life scenes with quasi-Pagan themes, as if the Church had found it necessary to appropriate age-old beliefs in a region of France still very much permeated by myths and legends pre-dating Christianity, and still very alive among the masses —I was almost about to write “... and to this very day”!
The many esoteric theories that have been developed about this church, even around Year 2000, seem to confirm this.
I was moved by the very sorry state of this church and I got in contact with my local colleagues of the Fondation du Patrimoine, drawing their attention to this monument, one of the oldest in the region, in the hope that maybe this initiative will trigger an awareness for the interest and need to restore and preserve this unusual village church.
The archaic, striking and enigmatic woman face on the only sculpted capital in the crypt. I would love to see some of those knowledgeable scholars I mentioned yesterday study this sculpture and tell us more about it...
I used a handheld Godox AD200 Pro II studio strobe, equipped with a round H200R head and a half-spherical diffuser, to provide additional lighting for this shot. The flash was set and triggered via a Godox X Pro II radio transmitter mounted on the camera, which was itself triggered via a Pixel Oppilas RW–221 radio remote, allowing me to walk around and pop the flash wherever it was needed.
Sorely in need of help: the Romanesque church of Condé-sur-Arnon
If the lover of old stones that I am is always delighted to find a monument «dans son jus», as we say in French (literally, “in its own juices”, meaning in its original –and often run down– state), full of authenticity and atmosphere, and allowing one to “read” its history just by looking at the shape, size and appareling of the stones, it is also true that sadness often comes into play as one acknowledges the decades, if not the centuries, of neglect and dereliction suffered by some of the finest pieces of our heritage.
The Romanesque church of Condé-sur-Arnon (département of Cher in the old province of Berry, central France), dedicated to Saint Dennis, is deemed to have been built, for its oldest parts, during the 11th century. My opinion is that this is a Year 1000 church, as attested by the flat apse and small apparel. Likewise, the archaic capitals, with motifs full of faith and of a touching naivety, far from the æstheticism and sophistication of large urban churches. This is a humble countryside church, yet it features some very interesting architectural and artistic traits that set it apart.
The misfortune of this church was the 1844 merger (at a time when this sort of procedure was not at all in fashion!) of Condé with the neighboring village of La Celle. The latter’s church was retained as the new parish church, and Saint Dennis was simply abandoned. As explained on the Wikipedia page devoted to this church, “the monument leaves an impression of desolation. As a matter of fact, when one compares current indoor views with those described by Deshoulières in 1931, the resemblance is striking.” Listed as a Historic Landmark as early as 1862, the church was probably not maintained at all until the 1990s, when it benefited from some emergency restoration works, mostly woodwork and roofing, thanks to a mayor mindful of heritage issues.
This church’s main originality lays in the fact that the choir and apse are raised almost two meters above nave level, as is sometimes seen in monastic churches (e.g., the Benedictine abbey church of Cruas in Ardèche, southeastern France). Totally bare, the nave is decorated with several Mediæval alfresco paintings (the Danse macabre could be early Renaissance) that are in a pitiful state, eaten away by dampness. The ceiling is a simple wood vault from the 1780s, but considering how the side walls lean outwards, I am convinced that this church was originally stone vaulted.
The choir, while of a great sobriety, is decorated with very harmonious and well-proportioned blind arcatures, and bathed in a typically Romanesque, soft and unusually plentiful light. It still retains its barrel vault.
Below the choir and apse is a semi-undergound crypt reachable via two low and dark tunnels running along the side walls. The floor plan is basilical and copies that of the choir. Light is scarce as the windows are very small. I had to use flash to light it properly for the photos. There are six columns but only one of the capitals’ faces is partly decorated, showing a naive and pure feminine visage with archaic traits. The faces of the other capitals seem to have been prepared for sculpture but none was ever undertaken. Contrary to the walls of the church itself which are of mediocre quality, the crypt is entirely appareled in very nicely cut stones.
All in all, and aside from some very eroded modillions, the only sculpted decoration can be found around the western portal, which features four short columns supporting the voussures, which are made of harmonious but bare arch stones. The four capitals are quite rough, archaic in their manner as most of what can be seen in this very old church. The motifs mix daily life scenes with quasi-Pagan themes, as if the Church had found it necessary to appropriate age-old beliefs in a region of France still very much permeated by myths and legends pre-dating Christianity, and still very alive among the masses —I was almost about to write “... and to this very day”!
The many esoteric theories that have been developed about this church, even around Year 2000, seem to confirm this.
I was moved by the very sorry state of this church and I got in contact with my local colleagues of the Fondation du Patrimoine, drawing their attention to this monument, one of the oldest in the region, in the hope that maybe this initiative will trigger an awareness for the interest and need to restore and preserve this unusual village church.
The archaic, striking and enigmatic woman face on the only sculpted capital in the crypt. I would love to see some of those knowledgeable scholars I mentioned yesterday study this sculpture and tell us more about it...
I used a handheld Godox AD200 Pro II studio strobe, equipped with a round H200R head and a half-spherical diffuser, to provide additional lighting for this shot. The flash was set and triggered via a Godox X Pro II radio transmitter mounted on the camera, which was itself triggered via a Pixel Oppilas RW–221 radio remote, allowing me to walk around and pop the flash wherever it was needed.