Vendée romane: l’abbaye Saint-Pierre de Maillezais (last photos)
The First Age of Romanesque (called premier art roman in French) in the old province of Vendée (south of Brittany, on the Atlantic coast of France) lasted until 1070 or so, when the locals returned after having participated in the conquest of England by William the Conqueror in 1066. At least 4,000 people of all conditions had joined William’s army from Poitou and Vendée, and whilst preparations for the invasion were being undertaken, they were stationed in Normandy and had time to see the innovative churches around them. Upon their return home, they would begin to implement such innovations locally.
The abbey of Maillezais predates this period, and therefore truly belongs to the First Age of Romanesque as it existed in Vendée. Around Year 1000, Maillezais was still an inland island when, in 976, the decision was made by Emma de Blois, wife of William, Duke of Aquitaine, to found an abbey to celebrate the mysterious discovery she had just made during a hunt of a hidden church, dedicated to Saint Hillary and concealed deep within a forest. In 989, the completed abbey church was consecrated. Furthermore, a fortress was built on the same island which the Vikings had invaded several times and which needed protection.
That first church, built just two kilometers from the abbey as we know it today, was unfortunately demolished in the 19th century, but it had ceased being the abbey church a long time before that.
I will not go too deep into the details of History, but indeed, shortly before Year 1000, the new abbot of Maillezais, rightly assessing that the presence of a military fortress so close to the abbey could become detrimental to the interests of the monks, should it fall into less amicable hands, obtained from Duke William the permission to tear it down, provided however that the abbot, a brilliant individual named Theodelin, undertook to build a new monastery in its place: thus the abbey as we know it today came into existence. It was built quite swiftly, and as soon as 1012, the enormous church was completed. Its majesty made a strong impression on the contemporaries.
The abbey was still missing some holy relics, however, the possession and veneration of which would insure a steady influx of pilgrims (and revenue). The apposite discovery in 1019 of a head deemed to be that of Saint John the Baptist in a nearby town (which subsequently changed its name to become Saint-Jean-d’Angély) called for the organization of festivities during which Theodelin stole a tooth from the holy relic. It wasn’t much, but then Providence lent a hand: further to several complicated familial and political stories I will not bother you with, the abbot obtained from Hugh, son of Duke William, that the body of Saint Rigomer, venerated in a church in the city of Le Mans, many miles away, be surreptitiously abducted during the night and transported to Maillezais, where they were ceremoniously installed in the majestic abbey church.
It was one of those translations furtives (literally, “stealthy transports”!) the Middle Ages is famous for. If you want to read a fun but historically quite accurate account of a similar affair taking place in 12th century England, I strongly recommend A Morbid Taste for Bones by Ellis Peters, featuring the famous monk–detective Brother Cadfael.
The final element to mention is that, having become the richest Benedictine abbey in Poitou around 1200, Maillezais became also a bishopric in 1317, its church cumulating its previous duties with those of a cathedral until it was ruined during the Wars of Religion and the bishopric was transferred to the coastal city of La Rochelle in 1648. The abbey was definitively abandoned in 1666 and subsequently used as a stone quarry until, in 1840, it was bought by educated people who decided to protect its amazing ruins. Today, it is the property of the département of Vendée.
The ruins are listed as a Historic Landmark since 1924.
One last look at the Saint Michael chapel above the narthex: the tall window opening to the south.
Vendée romane: l’abbaye Saint-Pierre de Maillezais (last photos)
The First Age of Romanesque (called premier art roman in French) in the old province of Vendée (south of Brittany, on the Atlantic coast of France) lasted until 1070 or so, when the locals returned after having participated in the conquest of England by William the Conqueror in 1066. At least 4,000 people of all conditions had joined William’s army from Poitou and Vendée, and whilst preparations for the invasion were being undertaken, they were stationed in Normandy and had time to see the innovative churches around them. Upon their return home, they would begin to implement such innovations locally.
The abbey of Maillezais predates this period, and therefore truly belongs to the First Age of Romanesque as it existed in Vendée. Around Year 1000, Maillezais was still an inland island when, in 976, the decision was made by Emma de Blois, wife of William, Duke of Aquitaine, to found an abbey to celebrate the mysterious discovery she had just made during a hunt of a hidden church, dedicated to Saint Hillary and concealed deep within a forest. In 989, the completed abbey church was consecrated. Furthermore, a fortress was built on the same island which the Vikings had invaded several times and which needed protection.
That first church, built just two kilometers from the abbey as we know it today, was unfortunately demolished in the 19th century, but it had ceased being the abbey church a long time before that.
I will not go too deep into the details of History, but indeed, shortly before Year 1000, the new abbot of Maillezais, rightly assessing that the presence of a military fortress so close to the abbey could become detrimental to the interests of the monks, should it fall into less amicable hands, obtained from Duke William the permission to tear it down, provided however that the abbot, a brilliant individual named Theodelin, undertook to build a new monastery in its place: thus the abbey as we know it today came into existence. It was built quite swiftly, and as soon as 1012, the enormous church was completed. Its majesty made a strong impression on the contemporaries.
The abbey was still missing some holy relics, however, the possession and veneration of which would insure a steady influx of pilgrims (and revenue). The apposite discovery in 1019 of a head deemed to be that of Saint John the Baptist in a nearby town (which subsequently changed its name to become Saint-Jean-d’Angély) called for the organization of festivities during which Theodelin stole a tooth from the holy relic. It wasn’t much, but then Providence lent a hand: further to several complicated familial and political stories I will not bother you with, the abbot obtained from Hugh, son of Duke William, that the body of Saint Rigomer, venerated in a church in the city of Le Mans, many miles away, be surreptitiously abducted during the night and transported to Maillezais, where they were ceremoniously installed in the majestic abbey church.
It was one of those translations furtives (literally, “stealthy transports”!) the Middle Ages is famous for. If you want to read a fun but historically quite accurate account of a similar affair taking place in 12th century England, I strongly recommend A Morbid Taste for Bones by Ellis Peters, featuring the famous monk–detective Brother Cadfael.
The final element to mention is that, having become the richest Benedictine abbey in Poitou around 1200, Maillezais became also a bishopric in 1317, its church cumulating its previous duties with those of a cathedral until it was ruined during the Wars of Religion and the bishopric was transferred to the coastal city of La Rochelle in 1648. The abbey was definitively abandoned in 1666 and subsequently used as a stone quarry until, in 1840, it was bought by educated people who decided to protect its amazing ruins. Today, it is the property of the département of Vendée.
The ruins are listed as a Historic Landmark since 1924.
One last look at the Saint Michael chapel above the narthex: the tall window opening to the south.