Languedoc roman: the priory of Saint-Pierre-de-Rhèdes (last photos)
[Back from Paris as scheduled, I resume my daily uploads... Many thanks for your patience!]
As you may know, my primary source when preparing a trip to discover the most fascinating Romanesque monuments in France (and elsewhere) is the Zodiaque collection of books, published between 1950 and 2000 by the Benedictine monks of La Pierre-qui-Vire in Burgundy, under the ægis of (and with photographs by) my mentor Dom Angelico Surchamp, osb. The Languedoc roman volume in that collection mentioned this isolated church of which I had never heard but which was conveniently located right next to the spa resort of Lamalou-les-Bains in the département of Hérault.
I say “conveniently” because, to tell you the truth, the real, primary purpose for which I drove down to Languedoc in November 2022 was not to photograph Romanesque churches (although that would obviously be a welcome complement), but to bring my beloved Revox B77 Mark II tape deck to a competent “fixer” who lived in a village not far from Lamalou. Months ago, I had stupidly broken one of the façade switches, and now the sick boy had to be taken to a healer to be fixed. And while the artisan was doing his thing on the Revox, I got to drive around and see beautiful old stones...
Back to the main matter, the church we are visiting today was built on the remains of an early Christian sanctuary built around the late 300s on the Gallo-Roman site of Rhèdes (traces of it have been found by archæologists). Then, in 551 (there is a most rare written trace), a new church was ordered to be built over the primitive one by “a King of France” whose name is not mentioned —and of course, “France” did not exist as such at that time.
That church was then donated to the Benedictine abbey of Villemagne at a date unknown, but it is mentioned in the last will and testament of Guillaume, viscount of Béziers and Agde († 990 AD), and again in 1153 as a priory of Villemagne.
Stylistically, the church we see today belongs to the First Romanesque Art of the 11th century, but there are indications of an earlier construction date for some parts of it, probably around Year 1000 or even before that milestone. It is a simple yet ample church, very old but beautifully preserved and restored, with none of the absurd excesses of the 19th century. It has been listed as a Historic Landmark since 1880 and the acoustics are so good there are many concerts of all kinds of music during the Summer season. It has been deconsecrated at some point but I haven’t found the exact date.
To conclude this series on the priory church of Rhèdes (and to close for now the chapter on Romanesque Languedoc), I upload these two photos of the apse: one of them showcasing its beautiful proportions and understated harmony, and one taking advantage of the terrain to show a level closeup one doesn’t often get to admire (our last one of the kind was at the abbey of Gellone).
I hope you have enjoyed this first series on Languedoc. There is of course a lot more to discover in that part of southern France that borders with Spain (not to mention in Spain itself!), but that will have to wait until some other time... In order to be able to upload photographs to Flickr, one must first travel and go shoot them! :o)
Languedoc roman: the priory of Saint-Pierre-de-Rhèdes (last photos)
[Back from Paris as scheduled, I resume my daily uploads... Many thanks for your patience!]
As you may know, my primary source when preparing a trip to discover the most fascinating Romanesque monuments in France (and elsewhere) is the Zodiaque collection of books, published between 1950 and 2000 by the Benedictine monks of La Pierre-qui-Vire in Burgundy, under the ægis of (and with photographs by) my mentor Dom Angelico Surchamp, osb. The Languedoc roman volume in that collection mentioned this isolated church of which I had never heard but which was conveniently located right next to the spa resort of Lamalou-les-Bains in the département of Hérault.
I say “conveniently” because, to tell you the truth, the real, primary purpose for which I drove down to Languedoc in November 2022 was not to photograph Romanesque churches (although that would obviously be a welcome complement), but to bring my beloved Revox B77 Mark II tape deck to a competent “fixer” who lived in a village not far from Lamalou. Months ago, I had stupidly broken one of the façade switches, and now the sick boy had to be taken to a healer to be fixed. And while the artisan was doing his thing on the Revox, I got to drive around and see beautiful old stones...
Back to the main matter, the church we are visiting today was built on the remains of an early Christian sanctuary built around the late 300s on the Gallo-Roman site of Rhèdes (traces of it have been found by archæologists). Then, in 551 (there is a most rare written trace), a new church was ordered to be built over the primitive one by “a King of France” whose name is not mentioned —and of course, “France” did not exist as such at that time.
That church was then donated to the Benedictine abbey of Villemagne at a date unknown, but it is mentioned in the last will and testament of Guillaume, viscount of Béziers and Agde († 990 AD), and again in 1153 as a priory of Villemagne.
Stylistically, the church we see today belongs to the First Romanesque Art of the 11th century, but there are indications of an earlier construction date for some parts of it, probably around Year 1000 or even before that milestone. It is a simple yet ample church, very old but beautifully preserved and restored, with none of the absurd excesses of the 19th century. It has been listed as a Historic Landmark since 1880 and the acoustics are so good there are many concerts of all kinds of music during the Summer season. It has been deconsecrated at some point but I haven’t found the exact date.
To conclude this series on the priory church of Rhèdes (and to close for now the chapter on Romanesque Languedoc), I upload these two photos of the apse: one of them showcasing its beautiful proportions and understated harmony, and one taking advantage of the terrain to show a level closeup one doesn’t often get to admire (our last one of the kind was at the abbey of Gellone).
I hope you have enjoyed this first series on Languedoc. There is of course a lot more to discover in that part of southern France that borders with Spain (not to mention in Spain itself!), but that will have to wait until some other time... In order to be able to upload photographs to Flickr, one must first travel and go shoot them! :o)