Tetons_PS_20120902_268.jpg
Mark on the hand traverse of Pitch 1.
Serendipity Arete on Mt. Owen (IV, 5.7), Teton Rock Climbs digital guide:
Utilize the West Ledges route from the couloir. One may ascend the ledges more directly, starting up from before the couloir. Follow these ledges to a point below and right (south) of the Serendipity Arête.
Scramble up and left (north) toward the base of the arête. An easy but exposed traverse to the north begins about 200’ below the route on the southwest corner of the arête. This traverse ledge contours around the corner and onto the west face of the broad lower arête.
Follow the ledge as it passes below and a bit beyond (north of) the huge roofs of the enormous left-facing dihedral. Scramble up and right until directly below the huge roof. Some exposed, easy 5th class terrain will be found on this approach.
PITCH 1 The first pitch goes around the right corner of the arête, at the level where the steep rock right of the enormous roofs meets the slab.
Traverse right (south) on easy 5th class cracks and ledges until a few feet right of plumb-line below the large roofs.
A crack system leads up to a hand traverse (5.7) directly below the small roof just right of the huge roofs. Traverse around the right corner and belay on a ledge.
PITCH 2 This long pitch heads straight up above the belay through an initial broken section to a short hand crack (5.7) on the right side of a very wide and shallow chimney.
Higher in the wide chimney, climb the right (south) crack (5.6) instead of the wider left crack.
Step to the left side of a leaning slab in the widening chimney. Climb easy 5th class directly up the slab, or the trough left of the slab. Belay above the slab.
PITCH 3 Turn left (north) above the leaning slab and scramble to another slab.
Avoid a steep hand crack just left of the slab by scrambling directly up the easy 5th class slab.
Finger cracks (5.6) through a bulge above the slab lead to easier terrain.
Move the belay over 4th class boulders to the top of the ridge crest. Stem across a horizontal chimney to reach the crest above the First “Tower.” One may avoid the knife-edge ridge crest by traversing below the crest to the Second Tower.
PITCH 4 Set the belay about 40’ down from the notch on the south side of the Second Tower, on a small platform overlooking a steep gully. Climb easy cracks up and right in white rock to reach black rock.
Go straight up the blocky, black rock.
Switch cracks as needed on the steep terrain (5.7). Climb up and left of a roof (5.7) to reach easier white rock. A short scramble leads to the base of the next tower
PITCH 5 Scramble over a layer of black rock to reach a crack in the crest of the Third
Climb the crack (5.6) to gain the top of this short tower.
Scramble over 3rd class ground to move the belay to the north side of the Fourth Tower. Set the belay under the first crack on the north side of the tower on a loose and exposed ledge. This crack lies within 15’ of the crest.
PITCH 6 Climb the obvious crack that leans slightly left (5.7).
Step right above the crack and follow a flared crack (5.6) into easier terrain.
Scramble over 4th class ground to the end of the rope, and belay.
PITCH 7 This long pitch continues scrambling up and slightly right (south) of the ridge crest of the Fourth Tower.
PITCH 8 Keep scrambling (easy 5th class) to the top of the tower. Move the belay down to the notch below the summit ridge, and below the crux chimney of the route.
PITCH 9 Stem the chimney (5.9) to reach ajug, clip a piton, then continue up the right wallto a belay ledge.
To avoid this chimney, downclimb or rappelabout 30’ down from the notch (southwest) to gain an easy 5th class ledge system that traverses south. Scramble up an easy 5th class chimney, then head up and slightly left to reach the Koven Chimney that splits the westside of the summit block.
Tetons_PS_20120902_268.jpg
Mark on the hand traverse of Pitch 1.
Serendipity Arete on Mt. Owen (IV, 5.7), Teton Rock Climbs digital guide:
Utilize the West Ledges route from the couloir. One may ascend the ledges more directly, starting up from before the couloir. Follow these ledges to a point below and right (south) of the Serendipity Arête.
Scramble up and left (north) toward the base of the arête. An easy but exposed traverse to the north begins about 200’ below the route on the southwest corner of the arête. This traverse ledge contours around the corner and onto the west face of the broad lower arête.
Follow the ledge as it passes below and a bit beyond (north of) the huge roofs of the enormous left-facing dihedral. Scramble up and right until directly below the huge roof. Some exposed, easy 5th class terrain will be found on this approach.
PITCH 1 The first pitch goes around the right corner of the arête, at the level where the steep rock right of the enormous roofs meets the slab.
Traverse right (south) on easy 5th class cracks and ledges until a few feet right of plumb-line below the large roofs.
A crack system leads up to a hand traverse (5.7) directly below the small roof just right of the huge roofs. Traverse around the right corner and belay on a ledge.
PITCH 2 This long pitch heads straight up above the belay through an initial broken section to a short hand crack (5.7) on the right side of a very wide and shallow chimney.
Higher in the wide chimney, climb the right (south) crack (5.6) instead of the wider left crack.
Step to the left side of a leaning slab in the widening chimney. Climb easy 5th class directly up the slab, or the trough left of the slab. Belay above the slab.
PITCH 3 Turn left (north) above the leaning slab and scramble to another slab.
Avoid a steep hand crack just left of the slab by scrambling directly up the easy 5th class slab.
Finger cracks (5.6) through a bulge above the slab lead to easier terrain.
Move the belay over 4th class boulders to the top of the ridge crest. Stem across a horizontal chimney to reach the crest above the First “Tower.” One may avoid the knife-edge ridge crest by traversing below the crest to the Second Tower.
PITCH 4 Set the belay about 40’ down from the notch on the south side of the Second Tower, on a small platform overlooking a steep gully. Climb easy cracks up and right in white rock to reach black rock.
Go straight up the blocky, black rock.
Switch cracks as needed on the steep terrain (5.7). Climb up and left of a roof (5.7) to reach easier white rock. A short scramble leads to the base of the next tower
PITCH 5 Scramble over a layer of black rock to reach a crack in the crest of the Third
Climb the crack (5.6) to gain the top of this short tower.
Scramble over 3rd class ground to move the belay to the north side of the Fourth Tower. Set the belay under the first crack on the north side of the tower on a loose and exposed ledge. This crack lies within 15’ of the crest.
PITCH 6 Climb the obvious crack that leans slightly left (5.7).
Step right above the crack and follow a flared crack (5.6) into easier terrain.
Scramble over 4th class ground to the end of the rope, and belay.
PITCH 7 This long pitch continues scrambling up and slightly right (south) of the ridge crest of the Fourth Tower.
PITCH 8 Keep scrambling (easy 5th class) to the top of the tower. Move the belay down to the notch below the summit ridge, and below the crux chimney of the route.
PITCH 9 Stem the chimney (5.9) to reach ajug, clip a piton, then continue up the right wallto a belay ledge.
To avoid this chimney, downclimb or rappelabout 30’ down from the notch (southwest) to gain an easy 5th class ledge system that traverses south. Scramble up an easy 5th class chimney, then head up and slightly left to reach the Koven Chimney that splits the westside of the summit block.