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Yaowarat road in July 2011 near Sampeng Market, China Town, Samphanthawong District, Bangkok, Thailand.

Samphanthawong is one of 50 districts of Bangkok, Thailand. Regarded as Bangkok's Chinatown, it is the smallest district in area but has the highest population density of all of Bangkok's districts. Neighbouring districts are Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Bang Rak, Khlong San ( across Chao Phraya River ), and Phra Nakhon. The district is sub divided into 3 sub districts, Chakkrawat, Samphanthawong, Talat Noi. You will find some great Chinese restaurants here, nothing like the ones you find around Europe. They don’t go much on decoration and some of them are very bare of decorations. But this is how Chinese restaurants are in China Town. There are the usual upmarket ones but the norm here is very basic. But the food is good and cheap. I usually go for the crispy Chinese duck, its cheap here and a great taste. Washed down with a cold Tsingtao beer. The beer is produced in Qingdao in Shandong province and made by the Tsingtao Brewery Co.,Ltd. nnd was founded by The Anglo-German Brewery Co. Ltd., an English / German joint stock company based in Hong Kong who owned it until 1916.

Samphanthawong area has been a Chinese community since the early days of Bangkok. Originally living in what is now the Phra Nakhon district, they were relocated here when the capital was set up. The narrow Sampheng Lane ( where you will find Sampheng Market ) now called Wanit I Road, was the district's main street until Yaowarat Road was constructed in 1892 during the reign of King Chulalongkorn. Sampeng ( in Thailand, you will see many ways of spelling the same word differently ) is depicted on the back of series 15 of the 20 Baht banknotes, to commemorate an important post World War II visit by a then, young king Rama VIII accompanied by HM's brother, Prince Bhumibol ( the present king of Thailand ). Nowadays, busy Yaowarat Road remains the heart of Bangkok's Chinatown. In this district you will find the Golden Buddha, officially called Phra Phuttha Maha Suwan Patimakon, it is the world's largest solid gold statue. It is located in the temple of Wat Traimit, Bangkok. The statue is about 3 metres tall and weighs 5.5 tonnes It can be disassembled into nine pieces. The statue was housed in a Wat in Ayutthaya until mid 19th century. It is said the gold in the statue ( 18 karat ) is estimated to be worth 250 million dollars. The body of the statue is 40% pure, the volume from the chin to the forehead is 80% pure, and the hair and the topknot, weighing 45 kg, are 99% pure gold.

Yaowarat Road is about 1.5 km in length. Along both sides, many gold shops and all kinds of Chinese restaurants selling noodles, rice, dim sum, bird's nest soup, crispy fried duck, can be found. The aroma is fantastic here. More shops, especially those selling fruit and Chinese traditional medicine, can be found in the small lanes branching off the main road. Recently, a gate was built to celebrate King Bhumibol's 72nd birthday. It is located on Odeon Circle ( named after a cinema that once stood nearby ) at one end of Yaowarat road sometimes called China Town gate. This part of the town is very busy because it’s the entrance to China town, along which most of the buses travel. Known also as “The Celebration Arch of 6th Cycle Aniversary Memorial.”

There are numerous markets around Samphanthawong. There are many shops and stalls along Yaowarat, Sampheng and Charoen Krung roads, especially at night and during weekends. Saphan Lek, the older name of the bridge crossing Khlong Ong Ang canal on Charoen Krung Road, is a narrow strip along both sides of Khlong Ong Ang with lots of small shops selling a variety of goods. It is particularly known as a centre for game consoles. Nearby is Woeng Nakhon Kasem or thieves market. Khlong Thom Market which is near, in Pom Prap Sattru Phai district , a famous market for low cost goods and electronics, is a large area of several blocks on the opposite side of Charoen Krung Road. The small lanes inside the blocks are fully packed with stalls operating on Saturday nights till Sunday mornings

Sampeng Market is a wonderful meeting of Chinese / Thai / Indian traditions and caters for all three of these peoples needs. It also caters for the tourist, providing all manner of items you will not find elsewhere around Bangkok. This is a mystical market, the beautifully designed glass arch roof looks majestically down on all the shoppers who strive to move in the narrow passageway of the main market area. The walkway is no wider than 1½ metres, and believe me it is not easy to move around shopping here. The walkway caters for shoppers, food sellers and motorbikes!

Yes, motorbikes try to negotiate this narrow walkway while carrying goods for delivery. Try to imagine 1 ½ metres wide, shoppers going north, shoppers going south, food sellers in between, then motorbikes appear, trying to overtake everyone. On top of this you then have the shoppers that want to stop either side, it’s crazy and drives you mad sometimes. Especially being so hot and humid in the arcade.China town is renowned for its shops selling gold jewellery. It’s packed full of them selling the usual bright 18 Carat gold that is so popular in Thailand. It never ceases to amaze me no matter how poor or how they complain about having no money, these gold retailers are always full of customers wanting to buy gold chains or lockets or Buddha images. You cannot miss them usually painted red outside and packed full of gold inside, hanging from the walls and locked away in cabinets.

This market is among one of the early Chinese communities during their resettlement in Thailand over 200 years ago. It had become the Wall Street of Bangkok during the mid 1800's. Not only was it prosperous as a business centre but also in illegal activities such as gambling, drugs, and prostitution. Although less attractive and less exciting than in former days, Sampeng never loses its importance as a shopping attraction in Bangkok's industrious Chinese community. The market’s origins are well over a hundred years old. The closeness to the water canals and easy communication were the main reasons that led to the development of this commercial complex. Sampeng Market is often described as something off the regular tourist route, it’s not easy to find your way round this market. I would suggest taking someone with you who can speak Thai and also knows the area. However when arriving there it’s amazing to see all the items on sale here from badges for clothes to hairdressing supplies, items for people who repair clothes or design them. Hair clips, hair bands, handbags, shopping bags, toys, anything you can think of is probably here.

Getting There

Take the BTS Sky train to Saphan Taksin station ( Silom line ) and leave via exit 1 to Tha Sathon. Then take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Tha Ratchawong. In front of the pier is Ratchawong road. Walk along the road until you reach Soi Wanit road crossing on your left and right. .

 

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Uploaded on March 5, 2017
Taken on July 3, 2011