Surfers Rule DSC_4269
I have never surfed before but tell myself if I ever get to live by the beach I would learn. I can see the appeal. Not so much for the act of surfing and riding the waves which I imagine is exhilarting but the experience and excuse to get out on the beach at daybreak, with no-one much about and look into the sea, absorbing the currents and the waves to determine the perfect time to leap off to meet the waves.
Surfers Rule DSC_4269
I have never surfed before but tell myself if I ever get to live by the beach I would learn. I can see the appeal. Not so much for the act of surfing and riding the waves which I imagine is exhilarting but the experience and excuse to get out on the beach at daybreak, with no-one much about and look into the sea, absorbing the currents and the waves to determine the perfect time to leap off to meet the waves.