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Embroidered dress

Embroidered dress, Autumn/Winter 2008

Erdem

Duchesse silk satin

 

Erdem lifted London's reputation as a fashion city in spring 2008. Suddenly here was a young upstart who was making eveningwear which aspired to demi-couture luxury. 'I rebel in ruffles and lace,' he remarked. He'd succeeded in doing this while working out of one room at the Centre for Fashion Enterprise in Mare Street in London's East End. The non-profit business incubator was the base from which he collaborated with friends he'd met at the Royal College of Art. Born in Montreal to a British mother and Turkish father, Erdem Moralıoğlu came to London in 2001 to study a masters in fashion at the Royal College of Art on a Chevening Scholarship and a bursary from the British Fashion Council. His shows and store in Mayfair are a mainstay of London fashion.*

 

From the exhibition

 

 

REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion

(September 2023 – February 2024)

 

Sponsored by Alexander McQueen.

 

This landmark exhibition is one of the most wide-ranging surveys of contemporary fashion culture ever staged in the UK, offering an unprecedented look at how careers in fashion are forged, and the multitude of opportunities London’s fashion scene offers young creatives.

The exhibition is a landmark collaboration with the British Fashion Council (BFC) and celebrates the 30th anniversary of the BFC’s NEWGEN programme, an initiative that supports the best emerging fashion design talent and aims to build global, high-end brands of the future.

Guest-curated by BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent Sarah Mower MBE and co-curated by Design Museum Senior Curator Rebecca Lewin, this exhibition tells the story of hundreds of fearless young designers who have transformed the fashion landscape, and brings together exuberant, rebellious and radical garments.

The show features nearly 100 innovative fashion looks from ground-breaking debut and early collections, many of which have entered pop-culture history — and launched global design careers.

Highlights include the swan dress controversially worn by Björk at the 2001 Oscars, Harry Styles’ Steven Stokey Daley outfit from his video for ‘Golden’, and Sam Smith's inflatable latex suit by HARRI from this year’s BRIT Awards. Collections and work by JW Anderson, Wales Bonner, Erdem, Molly Goddard, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Russell Sage, and many more.

These items are shown alongside films, drawings, memorabilia and never-before-seen archive material from some of the most well-known contemporary UK-based designers.

[*Design Museum]

 

Taken in the Design Museum

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Uploaded on May 5, 2025
Taken on February 3, 2024