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Young Man in a White Ruff, c1580-1600

North Italian Painter

 

During the 16th and 17th centuries, the colour black was associated with dignity and was worn by wealthy, educated and powerful men. This young man's doublet was likely once red and subsequently overpainted. In contrast to the shadowy doublet, his face is illuminated by a spotlessly white ruff. The folds of the stretched linen, here fluidly painted, would have been set in place using a heated iron.

[V&A]

 

 

Taken in the Exhibition

 

 

Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear

(March 2022 to November 2022)

 

At a moment of unprecedented creativity in men's fashion and reflection on gender, this exhibition explored how designers, tailors and artists – and their clients and sitters – have constructed and performed masculinity, and unpicked it at the seams.

...The exhibition showcases the variety of possible masculinities across the centuries from the Renaissance to the global contemporary: from looks by Gucci, Harris Reed, Grace Wales Bonner and Raf Simons, to paintings by Sofonisba Anguissola and Joshua Reynolds, contemporary artworks by David Hockney and Omar Victor Diop, to an extract from an all-male dance performance by Matthew Bourne's New Adventures.

 

The exhibition presents around 100 looks alongside 100 artworks, displayed thematically across three galleries, Undressed, Overdressed, and Redressed.

 

The second gallery, Overdressed, explores the elite masculine wardrobe, epitomised by oversized silhouettes, lavish materials like silks and velvet in daring colours, and symbolic patterns to express status, wealth and individuality. On display will be armoured breastplates, silky smoking suits, makeup and shaving equipment, sweeping capes, ribbons and lace, including Grinling Gibbons' wooden carving imitating a Venetian needlepoint lace cravat. Through the lens of contemporary fashion designers including Rahemur Rahman and Kim Jones, Overdressed will show how historic ideas begin to shift, with a full rainbow of masculine outfits on display.

[V&A]

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Uploaded on March 18, 2023
Taken on October 28, 2022