I live north of Hadrian's Wall in England, just beyond where civilisation allegedly stopped, in brilliant Newcastle upon Tyne. The shopping malls here match ancient astronomical alignments but much of the city centre is being rebranded by knocking it down, Passionate about demolition. We were once going to be the Brasilia of the northern hemisphere but now we are going to be like everywhere else. But there remain some magic tucked away places and even more importantly the people, who still talk largely in viking.