Photography is the main aim, the subject matter that you see, is an excuse to indulge in Photography of the modern age. I capture images in RAW mainly at 50mm full frame and 35mm APS-C what the eye can see and in some circumstances I use 28mm APS-C and 42 to 44mm Full Frame. Some of my early images where taken with a 55mm focal length on APS-C cameras, before I realised this focal length is too long for an APS-C camera, live and learn.

Getting the Exposure right at the time of taking a photograph is important and means less work in photo editing. When there is a contrast between light and dark in a scene, the digital camera rear LCD screen will flash the highlights and the Exposure Compensation negative/minus EV values are selected to avoid blown highlights in the light part of the image. However, on an overcast cloudy day and at dawn and dusk, there will be no contrasting light and dark and the camera meter will want to overexpose and there will be no flashing highlights and the over exposure can be seen with the lens aperture at a lower f number (for a fixed shutter speed and ISO setting) hence letting a bit too much light in, the whole of the camera LCD screen should show the image as overexposed in this instance, applying negative/minus EV values -0.3 and -0.7 and -1 will see the camera sensor get the correct exposure and matching ones camera screen to the actual scene should be possible when correctly exposed. Not all camera LCD screens are accurate in showing over exposure i.e. older DSLRs I find aren't, but more modern ones are up to the task. N.B. overcast days vary in the light available, it could be -0.3EV, it could be -0.7EV, it could be -1EV and -1.3EV. Exposure Compensation will only work when the Auto ISO setting is used, it will not work in Manual Mode, Manual Mode can be used to set the exposure too, by altering the aperture (with a fixed shutter speed and ISO setting) to let the right amount of light in, not too light and not too dark, but I find Exposure Compensation easier. I set up my cameras by taking a blank shot of the scene (i.e. no train) I'm going to capture to see what the light is like and then keep those settings and when the light changes take another blank shot to alter the settings if needs be, these blank shots I also practice the exact area of the scene where I want to take the image and can be useful later in adding bits to ones image if in taking the photo the camera has been a little too far right or too far left. This website explains Exposure Compensation too:

photographylife.com/what-is-exposure-compensation

Beware those Narcissist Photographers on Flickr where other Flickr users comments don't fit into the way they operate. www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/narcissistic-perso...