pure ways to enjoy life

“I know how lucky I am to have a job where I get to do what I love to do.

My job, essentially, is to right about surfing, and surfers, and what they do.

 

I’ve interview a million of people and I always wondered why people can’t describe the exhilaration that you get from surfing.

 

There’s this absolute feeling of freedom, where nothing else matters.

 

Surfing is probably one of the most pure ways to enjoy life as we know.”

 

 

by [Devon Howard]

in [Singlefin Yellow] film

Done