Mosėdis

History of Mosėdis town

Mosėdis is one of the oldest Samogitian land settlements, established on Bartuva river (feeder of Baltic Sea, 102,5 km), around 40 km northeast away from Kretinga and around 13 km south away from Skuodas close to Latvia border (around 15 km). Bartuva, flowing through the town, flows into Liepoja lake (this river is named Barta in the territory of Latvia).

Mosėdis for the very first time was mentioned in 1253 in the documents of Order of the Sword and Riga bishop land division. At the time of creation of Lithuania this location belonged to Ceklis district, which in XIII - XV century was scarcely populated.

In 1523 - 1529 a more precise line was drawn between Samogitian and Kurshes land. Mosedis fell in the territory of Lithuania in the distance of several kilometers. At that time vast forests grew there. Only during XVI – XVII centuries they were started to be lumbered: new homesteads and villages established, the ones being there – expanded. Churches and parishes were a rare case. Bishops took care of their establishment, requesting local landowners – noblemen to assign land lots and other property and capital, necessary to build church and maintain a parish. Finding no such generous landowners, churches were built by the bishops themselves.

Pagan fires in the areas of Mosėdis, Šilalė village were burnt even in XV - XVII centuries. Samogitians from the west side laid hidden stone paths through the swap leading to the ritual places.

In 1544 a Samogitian bishop Vaclovas Viežbickis having received a land lot from Kasparas Bilevičius together with few servants, built the first wooden church in Mosėdis (many written sources also date it to 1551). The same bishop granted Mosėdis church the rights of a parish, however they were not very precise, as it was quite vast: it reached Kurshes and the Baltic Sea. The first priest assigned was Rožickis.

During the period of 1544 - 1842 Mosėdis estate, town and the ward belonged in the jurisdiction of Samogitian bishop.

Around 1660 the town began to settle around the Mosėdis estate.

During the years of 1659 - 1660 Swedes majorly destroyed the Mosėdis estate, town and its surrounding area. During the war many local Mosėdis people died.

On April 25, 1702 the king Augustas II, under the request of the bishop J.Keršenšteinas, granted Mosėdis the rights of a market, the settlement was allowed to organize fairs.

In 1762 the bishop Antanas Tiškevičius established an altaria for senior priests and gave 18.755 golden coins for its maintenance .

In 1769 Mosėdis was granted a privilege of a market and fair.

In 1780 under the initiative of a bishop J. D. Lopacinskis, new buildings, brick church were build in the territory belonging to a church.

In 1783 a new Roman Catholic church was completed, a construction of which was supervised by the priest Pranciškus Virševičius, supported by the local noblemen with servants and it still stands up to this day. This is the third and probably the fourth .... and only in 1850 was consecrated by the bishop Motiejus Valančius.

In 1785 the bishop Koscia established a second altaria. In the midst of XIX century Mosėdis had four priests residing permanently, and a church under its ownership had 22 valakus (21 ha. each) of land together with the servants.

In 1822 Mosėdis had an established school, which was governed by a Russian teacher Karpyzovas.

The parish in 1841 had 5027 and in 1938 - 6854 parishioners.

In 1845 having collected financing from local parishioners a brick chapel was built in the cemetery.

 

 

MOSĖDIS HISTORY

Estate and town.

 

During the times of united Lithuania, Mosėdis estate and the town belonged to Samogitian bishops. The bishop Geišas assigned it to Varniai capitulum, however the bishop J.Tiškevičius took it back.

In 1841 Mosėdis had a population of 709 people, the majority of which were Jews.

In 1897 Mosėdis had a population of 904 people.

In 1831 the district’s lairds and a certain percentage of servants participated in the rebellion against Russians. General gubernator seeing Vilnius gubernia board report became very aware that such a rebellion was especially supported by the bishop’s peasants; the town’s administrator was hanged. After the rebellion, the estate was transferred to a disposition of Russians, however the hatred that peasants felt to Russians did not go away.

On March 21, 1848 the head of Telšiai district appealed the gubernator requested to send Russian army to certain estates, “where disobedience was felt even previously”.

The school in Mosėdis remaining from the times of United Lithuania was brought back to life with the initiative of a bishop M.Valančius and in 1853 it was attended by 49 pupils, mostly boys. Around 1880 under the initiative of local priests the school was “samogitian – catholic”: religion, catechism was taught in Lithuanian, as well as reading and writing. Around 1885 and later on the Russian teacher Karpyzovas having gendarme attitude banished Lithuanian language from school trying with every effort to russianize pupils. When he failed it with persuasion, he called Skuodas Orthodox priest (Mosėdis had no Orthodox church) in order to “consecrate” the school. He sprinkled the school and pupils with holy water, however his attempt to implant orthodox spirit was not successful.

In 1867 Mosėdis elementary school was established. At that time, all of the subjects were taught in Russian. For some time during the years of 1895 – 1897 religion was taught in Lithuanian by the priest Juozas Tumas - Vaižgantas, working as Mosėdis curate, a writer and a societal figure. Forced by Russians, he left Mosėdis and on March 5, 1897. He tried to impressively part himself, however looking at those poor Lithuanian children, he could not hold his tears and having kissed each of them, left the class.

After 1905 Lithuanians tried to establish ,,Saulė" society school, however did not receive an approval from the Russian government. At the beginning of XX century 90 pupils attended the school.

 

National Revival of Lithuania

 

The National Revival of Lithuania began in Mosėdis at the first half of XIX century. It was empowered and motivated by book smugglers, some priests, especially Kazimieras Pakalniškis (writer - uncle Atanazas) residing here from 1890. During the years of 1895-1897 the priest J. Tumas – Vaižgantas working as a curate pursued to strengthen Lithuanian activities with every effort possible. Living here he secretly established and edited ,,Tėvynės Sargas". In 1896 he established the temperance society and tried to legalize it, however the temperance campaign, organized by J. Tumas – Vaižgantas was temporary; later on vodka monopoly shop in Mosėdis received an annual income of 15.000 rb. That was a huge amount.

In 1897 in the issue No. 1 of ,,Tėvynės Sargas” from Mosėdis he wrote:

,,Our people became reasonable trying to stop the drinking. Many of them heard the voice of church, promised not to drink even a bit nor offer others and they keep their promise".

The very same J. Tumas – Vaižgantas having organized propagation of Lithuanian publications, had more difficult experiences. He was constantly under the police watch. Mosėdis people actively participated in 1905 anti-russian movement. Many of them suffered for their wrongdoings and were put to jails. Even though Russian suppression increased, Lithuanian movement increased after 1905.

During the times of Czarist Russia, Mosėdis was a parish centre and belonged to Telšiai district.

On April 15, 1908 a first Lithuanian night was organized; since then such evenings were organized even more often. In 1909 the town had a church choir, book store, temperance society department, reading-room. Mosėdis parish had a population of around 10 thousand permanent residents. With the formation of independent Lithuania Mosėdis people were very involving. At the end of 1918 they formed a parish (ward) committee and actively participated in the process of restoration of Lithuania. During the years of independence Mosėdis remained as a ward center and belonged to Kretinga district. In 1923 there were 116 houses with 685 residents.

In 1923 language of local people at Mosėdis surrounding area was recorded by a linguist Kazimieras Būga.

In 1939 there were about 800 residents. They had an established ward’s local government, school, post office, public library with a reading room, health care center and a veterinary, pharmacy, cooperative, mill, minor credit union, power plant, several shops and workshops. In 1925 residents voted to forbid selling of alcohol in the territory of a ward. Riflemen had a small book store.

In 1940 Mosėdis parish had a population of 6854 parishioners.

During the Second World War the Nazis arrested and killed the majority of Jews living in Mosėdis and surrounding areas who failed to hide. The settlement itself did not suffer significantly. After the Second World War, Mosėdis partisans were actively participating in the surrounding area.

In 1959 Mosėdis had a population of 649 residents.

On June 6, 1962 Mosėdis suffered a great fire, during which a large part of town was burnt, including the office of the collective farm, pharmacy, the majority of residential buildings. During a hot summer day the fire spread so quickly that farmers returning from fields found remaining foundations. In total 28 residential houses, 5 public buildings, 32 outbuildings were burnt; only eastern and western outskirts of Mosėdis were saved from fire. After the fire (until 1966) Mosėdis was able to recover slightly.

In 1966 Mosėdis had a school, 2 shops, café-restaurant, post office, medical center, pharmacy, house of Bolshevik propaganda and a library. Few brick houses were built.

In 1979 at the valley of Bartuva river, the doctor Vaclovas Intas established a National Museum of Rare Stones.

The period after the recovery of Lithuania’s independence was rather challenging for Mosėdis people as well as others living in rural areas. With the collapse of collaborative farming system, the majority of residents stayed unemployed, more than 300 of them currently are registered at the Labour exchange. Time changes peoples’ thinking, skills, people start to believe in themselves more. Local people started to enlarge their farms, establish private companies. Currently the main source of income comes from agricultural sector.

The district has two Norwegian capital companies - UAB ,,Mitter" (produce artificial fur) and UAB ,,Termotextile" (produce blankets and pillows), two wood processing companies - UAB ,,Skalsa", 3 monument production companies ( A.Kataržio PĮ ,,Kūlis", A.Venslausko IĮ, P.Leiliono IĮ, car repair services - ,,Kabera" (Ūdraliai) and a car repair service in Šaukliai , and Skuodas labour exchange department. The district has 2 post offices, 11 shops, café, guest house ,,Kaštonas", out-patient facility, pharmacy, veterinary pharmacy, 1 barber’s shop, 2 ritual service companies.

In 2004 having received SAPARD financing a biological sewage treatment plant was built.

A lot of attention is given for development of tourism: touristic attraction sites are cleaned and well maintained, information stands are installed.

Today’s territory of Mosėdis eldership was formed in 1978 when breaking down Daukšiai parish, “Taikos” collective farm territory was joined to Mosėdis parish. Currently, Mosėdis eldership covers an area of 97 sq. km. According to population census, the population of Mosėdis in 2001 reached the number of 3024 residents.

Larger settlements of an eldership: Mosėdis, Šaukliai, Krakiai, Ūdraliai, Šatraminiai.

During the years of 2004 – 2005, the eldership had Mosėdis secondary school (555 pupils) , Krakiai elementary school (12 pupils), Šaukliai elementary school ( 47 pupils), Ūdraliai elementary ( 19 pupils), Mosėdis kindergarten (30 children).

Since July 5, 2006 under the decision of Skuodas district municipality, Mosėdis secondary school was reorganized into Skuodas district Mosėdis gymnasium. Health issues of the eldership citizens are taken care of by Mosėdis primary health care center, Mosėdis cultural center and library are responsible for taking care of leisure activities for local people. The town has Mosėdis parish orphanage, St. Mykolas Archangel Roman Catholic Church.

A road of a national importance with the route Skuodas – Plungė runs through Mosėdis, has busses going to Vilnius, Kaunas, Plungė, Mažeikiai, Skuodas, Akmenė, Šilutė.

During the years of Lithuania’s revival, a monument for the deceased partisans was built in Bartuva valley.

In 1993 an international folk festival „Baltica 93" was organized at Bartuva valley, Mosėdis. Since then during a summer season it became a tradition to organize folk, country music festivals and many other, attracting local people and their guests.

In 1999 Mosėdis had a population of around one thousand and 500. In 2002 Mosėdis counted 26 births, 45 deaths and 75 emigrants.

Community of Mosėdis town maintain relations with Parchow municipality of Poland Republic, Friesack city of Germany.

In 2003 people solemnly commemorated the 750th anniversary of the first mentioning of Mosėdis in written sources. Events lasted for 3 days. During them Mosėdis coat of arms and a flag were consecrated. An ethnological roof-pole memorializing this anniversary was built in Mosėdis (sculptor Vidmantas Kleiva).

In 2004 having received SAPARD financing a biological sewage treatment plant was built.

In 2008 Mosėdis commemorated the 755th anniversary.

The eldership has two post offices, 2 libraries, 1 cultural center (in Mosėdis), 2 community homes, 1 café in Šaukliai, , 8 grocery shops among which 5 of them are located in Mosėdis, 1 café ,,Malūnininko užeiga" in Mosėdis, guest house ,,Kaštonas" (Mosėdis), out-patient treatment facility in Šaukliai, primary health care center in Mosėdis – visiting specialists – dentist, gynecologist, pharmacy, veterinary pharmacy, 2 barber shops, mill, 2 ritual service companies, the town also has a kindergarten, orphanage, fire station, police station, also has an internet access.

Mosėdis eldership includes 28 villages, total number of residents in the eldership - 2815: men - 1353, women - 1462.

Number of residents in villages: Baksčiai - 15, Bobiliškės - 9, Būdvietė - 4, Gondlaukė - 2, Gaubės - 10, Igarkai - 71, Krakės - 153, Kusai - 9, towns: Kalniškiai - 29, Mikulčiai - 58, Mosėdis - 1441, Naujukai - 35, Nerėpai - 0, Nevočiai- 56, Paieškūnė - 3, Palaukė - 6, Palšiai - 12, Plaušiniai - 29, Šatraminiai - 185, Šaučikiai - 2, Šaukliai - 428, Šerkšniai - 39, Šilalė - 8, Šiukščiai - 2, Tauzai - 48, Tėveliai - 66, Udraliai - 174, Virbaliai - 69.

A lot of attention is given for development of tourism: touristic attractions sites are cleaned and well maintained, information stands are installed.

However, Mosėdis became known because of a doctor Vaclovas Intas and his established National Museum of Rare Stone (In 2005 the museum was named after its founder and now is: Vaclovas Intas National Stone Museum ). The V. Intas estate itself is an object of attraction, where the museum was first started to be established.

In Akmenų street (previosuly - Kapų), close to a church, there still remains a house where during the years of 1895 - 1898 lived a poet, priest and active promoter of a Lithuanian spirit Juozas Tumas - Vaižgantas.

St. Mykolas Archangel Church, settled in the center of a town also receives a great deal of attention from tourists and other town guests. Not far from Mosėdis you will come across a Šaukliai Landscape Reserve (so called Šaukliai tundra). A nature walkway following which visitors are introduced to various stones, rare plants, insects and animals.

Taking the road Skuodas - Plungė from Mosėdis towards Salantai, the sign invites you to turn west. Here, very close to the road, sits the Greatest Šilalė stone and 3 pitted stones.

Mosėdis became also well-known for cultural events, organized many years in a row: folk festivals: ,,Bieg opelė vingurdama", country music festival and others. Mosėdis also hosted the international folk festival “Baltica” events twice. Crowds of people gather to attend them.

 

 

1. A. Tautavičius. Earth signs. // Science and life, No. 12, 1966.

2. ,,Our Lithuania". Historical, geographic and ethnographic features of region’s lands (IV volume)

3. Mosėdis: history and today. Culture, heritage and ”stone cult". // Samogitian land, No. 2 (47), 2005.

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