Xynole installation

One way (and perhaps the smart way) to laminate Xynole to the hull:

 

Day 1- laminate the topsides. Day 2- unroll the Xynole onto the bottom panels and laminate them.

 

Not known as the sharpest knife in the drawer, I decided to cover the entire hull with Xynole and do the entire lamination in one day though working alone. One advantage of doing it all together is a good chemical bond on the bottom and topside seams.

 

The 60 degree temps made it possible to avoid use of the Raka epoxy hand pumps and instead use three large plastic cups to measure out the epoxy. I filled two cups with resin and one with slow hardener. This method worked error free for me as I required three cups filled and staring at me before I added the hardner and resin together. For each batch, I carefully scrapped out the resin/hardner from the measuring cups to keep the mixture portions correct. All applied epoxy kicked off normally on the hull so my method worked well.

 

I ended up with epoxy batches probably around 3/4 quart. I mixed each batch about three minutes and either immediately dumped it onto the bottom panels or in a paint roller tray. My first epoxy pour was started midship on a bottom panel and I worked towards the stem pushing out winkles and using the squeegee to spread the epoxy to prevent excess in a particular area.. Yup, you use a lot of epoxy. I then returned midship and worked towards the stern. I used a roller on the topsides to apply the epoxy and then the squeegee to work out excess.

 

Working alone this was a 9 hour job to complete all Xynole installation. I ran out of epoxy on the first day and had a small area to finish when my epoxy was replenished. My approach of mixing large epoxy quanities was only possible because of the 60 degree temps. Better yet, the temperature was consistent that day thus I had virtually no bubbles in the epoxy from out gassing from the wood as heated air escaped from the wood fibers.

 

This picture depicts rolling back the bottom panel fabric edge in preparation for applying epoxy to the edge of the topside panel to wet tab the topside panel in place . Next, the blue masking tape was removed. Then I pulled the bottom panel Xynole back over the topside panel fabric and went to town on spreading the epoxy on the Xynole covering the bottom panels. After bottom completion, I went to work on the topsides.

 

For the topside/bottom panel Xynole seam in the area of the chine flats, I put this seam in the valley formed by the chine flat and the bottom panel which made fairing of the seam easier . In retrospect, the topside/bottom Xynole seam will be covered by the chine rail so fairing of the seams is not a big deal so not sure what I thought I was accomplishing by putting the seam in the valley.

 

I didn't accurately keep track of the amount of epoxy I used. I guess 5-6 gallons. This includes the epoxy that glued my elbows and knees to my clothes. I also got a head start on coating my concrete floor with an epoxy based material.

 

 

After the Xynole installation was complete and epoxy sufficiently hardened, I used a wide and very sharp wood chiesel to fair the topside/bottom seams.

 

I believe that the lamination of the bottom/topside seam with both edges wet results in a thinner seam as the material can be compacted together versus later laying bottom fabric onto cured topside fabric. But then again this real or imagined benefit may not be proper compensation for killing oneself in applying all the Xynole in one sitting.

 

Edit 03/27/2014: Instead of using masking tape to hold the Xynole in position, use thumb tacks. Removing the tape can cause threads to unravel.

Done