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Varanasi Inspired by Ginsberg

Buzzing fan stops its whirling…power cut again, no warning…a cappella

dogs baptize the night with their croons…hip digs into stiff straight

mattress; turn over and let my bum take the spite of the

board…sleepless night, up at 6:10 and ready for the 6:20 boat…boatman

seems to have read my mind—awaiting a sleep-deprived tourist in the

courtyard…try the ghat gate but it's locked and no one's around to

open it…don't they know the sun is about to rise? urgent…we go out the

other way and down to his moist wooden boat…fog dips down to the water

and waits for the obnoxious sun to push his way into the day…with

thick breath, it slides onto my skin like a wet cotton ball…scornful

of my invading breath…woolen cap protects the oar man, I burrow into

my scarf…water like the smooth wet surface of my eye…early bright puja

flowers bobbing in their leaf bowls fighting the breeze to keep the

prayer aflame…moody buildings rise suddenly from the ghat, reluctant

to open their orifices, knowing that light brings heat…want to remain

ominous and imposing…shirtless brown men already in the water

splashing and swishing…right hand to mouth for a slurp of holy, green

Ganga…what about the lump of sepia sludge floating by and the hoary,

hairy skull of a holy bovine…off for a swim, halfway, can he make it

all the way?…hands together, eyes closed, down up down up daily

self-baptism…yellow, squinty eyed poser pilgrim conspicuously prays—it

will never be your religion…bitch dogs run about looking for

breakfast, playing with their neighbor pack for a bit of

exercise…light rays have burst on the flat desolate other side—got the

raw end of the deal, that side—and struggle to warm the cool air above

the water…the small burning ghat doesn't need it, it's been burning

since cold dark chanting this early morning…push past with heavy oars,

try not to see the emaciated body, lip-licking flames devouring old

flesh…bulbous head and bird feet erect, baldly show themselves under a

pile of life size Lincoln logs…is this a better way to go?...strange

to entrust the lowest class to carrying your father down to the

river…wouldn't it be more honorable to do it yourself…he sweeps your

streets, takes your trash…and now this?...the stretcher into the still

water to be embraced, silky droplets coating the golden cloth-covered

body…then lit and to ash and mixed with all the other black bits by

the shore…is this really better…go away you curious george white man

and find your plot of dirt…dig your hole and leave me to my bath…have

it your way…up the ghat to chai tent filled with chai woman in an

ill-fitting sari…one rot-your-teeth chai please in a glass slurped by

how many others this barely lit morning?...and some parle-g's for

dipping…50 rupees for your rowing, my friend, I think I'll walk now…to

the main ghat to sit and watch skinny tangerine sadhus with unkempt

stringy beards (I can braid that for you)…haunting eyes, chiseled

cheek-bones, bow legs…bless me for baksheesh with wet orange powder on

my wide white forehead…baby brown cow sniffs my head hoping for a leaf

or a bit of dal, her pointy gum tongue leaves it's cavity to explore

my hand…she's been freshly bathed by her mother…it's not Ganges water,

but it's something…she wanders to the open-air barber…man in the chair

puts his adam's apple in the barber's hand, head back like the burning

man, straight edge against wet stubbly skin…

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Uploaded on April 4, 2005
Taken on February 11, 2005