Germigny-des-Prés: the only Carolingian mosaic in France
We have left the abbey of Fleury but our first stop will not take us very far: just a few kilometers down River Loire. In fact, we are still within what was in the 800s the abbey’s domain. There was probably a small settlement here, and in the hope of creating a real village, Theodulf, abbot of Fleury and also bishop of Orléans, had the church built between 803 and 806. It is not a very large church, but not a small one either, and this time span of only three years says a lot about how fast construction activities could go when the proper will and means were applied...
Perhaps an explanation can be found in the fact that, contrary to what was believed, the church was not built ex nihilo in the early 800s: in 2019, a non-destructive survey demonstrated that some of the structural walls can be dated as early as the mid-600s, i.e. a century and a half before the Carolingian church... Some of that structure was re-used in the 800s.
Of course, the monument was remodeled and added to later. The nave was never vaulted, and thus prone to fall victim to fire, which happened as early as the 850s. In 1060–1067, Hugh I, abbot of Fleury, rebuilt parts of the nave, and yet more repairs and reconstructions were carried out after the Wars of Religion, the nave being almost entirely rebuilt in the 16th century. Extensive reconstruction also took place in the 19th century after the church was listed as a Historic Landmark on the very first list 1840. Long thought to be the oldest church in France, the most authentic parts of the monument today (which started out in life with a simple quatrefoil floor plan) are the eastern apse, the choir, and of course the Carolingian mosaic, which was preserved.
The church is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The lovely apse. You can still enjoy its overall proportions and harmony, but of course, this is all a reconstruction of the 1850s, which is why it looks so pristine! There are genuine parts in there, but telling them from modern-day masonry would be almost impossible.
The wonder, however, and the reason why visiting this church is a must for every Mediævalist, is the Carolingian mosaic which was preserved through the centuries. There is no other mosaic that old anywhere in France.
Germigny-des-Prés: the only Carolingian mosaic in France
We have left the abbey of Fleury but our first stop will not take us very far: just a few kilometers down River Loire. In fact, we are still within what was in the 800s the abbey’s domain. There was probably a small settlement here, and in the hope of creating a real village, Theodulf, abbot of Fleury and also bishop of Orléans, had the church built between 803 and 806. It is not a very large church, but not a small one either, and this time span of only three years says a lot about how fast construction activities could go when the proper will and means were applied...
Perhaps an explanation can be found in the fact that, contrary to what was believed, the church was not built ex nihilo in the early 800s: in 2019, a non-destructive survey demonstrated that some of the structural walls can be dated as early as the mid-600s, i.e. a century and a half before the Carolingian church... Some of that structure was re-used in the 800s.
Of course, the monument was remodeled and added to later. The nave was never vaulted, and thus prone to fall victim to fire, which happened as early as the 850s. In 1060–1067, Hugh I, abbot of Fleury, rebuilt parts of the nave, and yet more repairs and reconstructions were carried out after the Wars of Religion, the nave being almost entirely rebuilt in the 16th century. Extensive reconstruction also took place in the 19th century after the church was listed as a Historic Landmark on the very first list 1840. Long thought to be the oldest church in France, the most authentic parts of the monument today (which started out in life with a simple quatrefoil floor plan) are the eastern apse, the choir, and of course the Carolingian mosaic, which was preserved.
The church is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The lovely apse. You can still enjoy its overall proportions and harmony, but of course, this is all a reconstruction of the 1850s, which is why it looks so pristine! There are genuine parts in there, but telling them from modern-day masonry would be almost impossible.
The wonder, however, and the reason why visiting this church is a must for every Mediævalist, is the Carolingian mosaic which was preserved through the centuries. There is no other mosaic that old anywhere in France.