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Coco dress

Coco dress, Spring/Summer 2004

Yvie Hutton

Silk

 

Jonathan Saunders was in the vanguard of young London's optimistic surge of print, colour and partywear that danced fashion out of its post-9/11 gloom. His first NEWGEN show in 2004 was kaleidoscopic, inspired by the art of Victor Vasarely, the geometrics of MC Escher and the energy of late 1990s rave culture in his hometown of Glasgow. Saunders learned print at Central Saint Martins, graduating in 2002. He secretly screen-printed this hit debut while teaching at Brixton Printworks, turning their print-room into his studio at night.*

 

From the exhibition

 

 

REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion

(September 2023 – February 2024)

 

Sponsored by Alexander McQueen.

 

This landmark exhibition is one of the most wide-ranging surveys of contemporary fashion culture ever staged in the UK, offering an unprecedented look at how careers in fashion are forged, and the multitude of opportunities London’s fashion scene offers young creatives.

The exhibition is a landmark collaboration with the British Fashion Council (BFC) and celebrates the 30th anniversary of the BFC’s NEWGEN programme, an initiative that supports the best emerging fashion design talent and aims to build global, high-end brands of the future.

Guest-curated by BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent Sarah Mower MBE and co-curated by Design Museum Senior Curator Rebecca Lewin, this exhibition tells the story of hundreds of fearless young designers who have transformed the fashion landscape, and brings together exuberant, rebellious and radical garments.

The show features nearly 100 innovative fashion looks from ground-breaking debut and early collections, many of which have entered pop-culture history — and launched global design careers.

Highlights include the swan dress controversially worn by Björk at the 2001 Oscars, Harry Styles’ Steven Stokey Daley outfit from his video for ‘Golden’, and Sam Smith's inflatable latex suit by HARRI from this year’s BRIT Awards. Collections and work by JW Anderson, Wales Bonner, Erdem, Molly Goddard, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Russell Sage, and many more.

These items are shown alongside films, drawings, memorabilia and never-before-seen archive material from some of the most well-known contemporary UK-based designers.

[*Design Museum]

 

Taken in the Design Museum

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Uploaded on May 5, 2025
Taken on February 3, 2024