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The heatwave continues here, with yet another day over 40C, which you can see if you look closely at the large version of this photo.
Photos posted to link to this car's thread on the Cadillac message boards.
www.cadillacforums.com/forums/classic-cadillac-forum/8854...
It's HOT out! But that doesn't mean you should have to break a sweat in your Cadillac. I invested some time into making that a reality once again for this car.
This car was "retrofitted" to R134a in 2004. From the time that I owned it, performance was forgivable until the outside temperature got into the mid 80s and above, or parking in the sun for an extended period of time. Basically it exhibited all of the flaws of a converted car. When it was really hot out, the AC was a bad joke, especially when driving slowly. After exhausting everything else, the only choice was to go back to R12.
I had never done any real AC work besides the occasional charge with a can until the air coming out "felt good." I wanted to have an AC shop do everything, but no one in my area does anything with R12 anymore. I was definitely nervous, as, despite it sucking, the 134 system didn't leak at all. I found that it really wasn't that bad, and I would do it again if I had to.
This is what everything looked like before I started. The compressor was changed in 1991...R4's are not known to live that long so it was definitely going to be replaced. I bought an ancient but new Harrison 200 on Ebay some years ago in preparation for this. Here it is getting ready oiled and ready to spin for the first time in decades! Hopefully it will hold up.
At some point the evaporator core was replaced, evidenced by the black goop sealing the box. I wasn't sure of it's condition so I was going to replace it too (it wan't in bad shape and was probably a waste to anyone who might be considering undertaking something like this). I'm glad I did it because the way the box was sealed really wasn't the best and was probably sacrificing some efficiency. I didn't take any pictures of the box itself, but the sealant that was used was a nightmare to remove completely. This was really the worst part of the job, as whoever did it last must have bought stock in the sealant company. Even the drain was filled full of the stuff
So I'm not sure how exactly it was draining before (it did drain though, no standing condensate) There is a bolt that holds the bottom of the HVAC box to the firewall, just about where the passenger's left foot would rest that goes behind the carpet, through to the engine bay. This bolt was missing, and the box was surprisingly...you guessed it, glued to the firewall with about a 1/2 tube of sealant! I was able to find a nut and bolt that was appropriate to hold the box as it was designed to. While I was behind the carpet, I also noticed this.
This rubber plug has 3 vacuum lines running through it. Mine was loose, so much so that if one shined a light at the firewall from under the hood it would come through the car. It was a bitch to get a grasp on and seat back into position. I had no idea that it was there, much less that it was loose and causing an air leak into the car right by one of the manifold-to-Y pipes. I only mention this because I told my buddy about it who owns a 1985 car and his was just kinda dangling there like mine was. Worth looking at if you own a car of this era. I had to use two pair of tiny needlenose to put enough power on it to pop it back in.
There was nothing really wrong with the lines or condenser, so they would be flushed out, 134a-dapters removed, mineral oiled and put back into service. At an HVAC pro's recommendation, I used RX11 AC flush. Nasty stuff, but did a great job. It is really important to get the 134a oil out of the system, along with any garbage that may have accumulated over the years. My job was made easier by tons of green dye that was in the system.
The orifice tube is supposed to collect physical contaminants. They really shouldn't be that dirty, provided you're not working with a car that had a blown compressor. No idea how old this tube was, but it was not bad.
Once I had the system flushed, I put everything back together using one of those AC o-ring kits. My mechanic checked it for leaks, and then vacuumed it down. Finally I was ready to charge! I was excited, and regrettably forgot to take pictures of the process (I even bought a gauge set). Anyway, the only one more excited than me was the car!
Can you see the cold?
Vent temps are in the mid 40's around town, NYC. Figure 90 +/- 5 and very humid. On the highway, I've seen as low as 37, but no lower. Of note, these measurements were taken from the center vents using a digital temp sensor, not a vent thermometer. Regardless, of the vent temp, the car itself is actually cool inside which is something I remember about R12 that even newer cars that have much more consistent performance seem to lack. Ice coming out of the vents, but you have to be in the airflow to actually be cool. Not so anymore. I'm so pleased with this, and kinda shocked that it worked! To anyone contemplating AC work, I recommend watching this guy's videos, especially this one
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kh0CGLWX_Wc
It helped me out a lot (read: gave me confidence to tear into an air conditioning system) I'll be back with an unrelated update sometime soon, and I don't mean 3 months soon like last time!
A wine thermometer sits in the neck of the bottle to ensure the wine is drunk at the optimum temperature
ODC-Instant Gratification
This reads your temperature through your ear. It takes a second to get it. Sure beats some of the other ways of taking one's temperature.
I originally called this a snow cricket, but apparently have the wrong name. It's probably a bit late for trying to change it now, but what the heck...
Two thermometers per enclosure allows you to better monitor the thermal gradient between the cool and heated ends.
This is an old thermometer that Deb has had since she was a child.
You notice the price on the back of 1.50
You can't find any newer ones to day for a dollar fifty.
It comes is a nice holder with a screw on top.
I would imagine Apex isn't even in business today.
I realize that the thermometer on my front porch can be a bit off at certain times of the day, but rarely more than a couple of degrees. I've never seen it register this hot.
I’ve had this thermometer since 1990 and it’s seen a lot of weather. Today as the temperature in our back yard peaked at 102F (38.89C), a bubble somehow formed in the tube and may have rendered this old soldier ready for retirement.
A panel mounted digital thermometer. Can be used for walk-in coolers and freezers and high temperature applications.
One of the curios at my parent's house. They have lots of "stuff." I'm pretty sure this is a clock/thermometer mounted on the gazeebo that nobody uses to determine the time or temperature.
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Project 365 -- 40.365
I have a very small collection of 1933 , Chicago Worlds Fair items that I like adding too. I found this postcard in an old antique shop. It is the Havoline Thermometer, from the CENTURY OF PROGRESS INTERNATIONAL EXPOSITION, Chicago, 1933. On the back it reads,
WORLD'S TALLEST THERMOMETER.
Twenty-one stories (218 ft.) high. Shows the temperature by neon light tubes. Sponsored by Indian Refining Company, Lawrenceville ILL. Makers of WAXFREE HAVOLINE MOTOR OIL-best for all cars, winter or summer, because it contains no wax. Wax turns candle-hard with cold, water-thin with heat. Keep wax out of your motor! WAXFREE HAVOLINE MOTOR OIL IS SOLD AT ALLTEXACO STATIONS.
We were fucking around with this thing. The top reads "Bridge Thermometer."
Jose read it as, "Thermo - meter!" Good times.
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Take a long bath.
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Cook and dine along with the family members.
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Watch your much-loved TV show or flick.
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Enjoy a massage
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