View allAll Photos Tagged Carracci,
The Carracci Institute Year Book, 2017
Freee Art Collective
Courtesy the artist and NN
Photo by Joe Brown
2023_12_25 Piazza Maggiore Bologna Emilia-Romagna Italy
Piazza Maggiore from left to right: Palazzo d'Accursio, Palazzo del Podestà , Palace dei Bianchi, Basilica di San Petronio,
Piazza Maggiore is a central square in Bologna, region of Emilia-Romagna, Italy. The appearance in the 21st century, generally reflects the layout from the 15th century. The Northwest corner opens into Piazza del Nettuno with its Fontana del Nettuno, while the Northeast corner opens into the narrower Piazza Re Enzo, running along the flanks of the Palazzo Re Enzo that merges with the Palazzo del Podestà. Flanking the Piazza del Nettuno is the Biblioteca Salaborsa.
The square is surrounded by major administrative and religious buildings in the history of Bologna, including:
* Palazzo d'Accursio (W) - city hall and museum
* Palazzo dei Notai (SW) - former notaries' guild
* Basilica of San Petronio (SE) - Duomo of Bologna
* Palazzo dei Banchi (E)- former banking center
* Palazzo del Podestà, Bologna (N) - former police and justice offices
The oldest of all is the Palazzo del Podestà to the north, which dates back to 1200, this is topped by the Torre dell'Arengo. Next to it is the Palazzo Re Enzo which was added to the first.
The west of the square is closed by the Palazzo d'Accursio (or Palazzo Comunale), a monumental architectural complex from the 14th century, which houses the Town Hall, but also the Morandi Museum. This building also overlooks Piazza del Nettuno, joined to Piazza Maggiore, in the center of which stands the Fountain of Neptune (Fontana del Nettuno) , also called Fountain of the Giant, created in 1565 by Giambologna.
To the south, facing the Palazzo del Podestà, rises the majestic unfinished facade of the Basilica of San Petronio, an illustration of Italian Gothic, whose construction began at the end of the 14th century and was completed three centuries later.
The east of the square is closed by the Palazzo dei Banchi, built between 1565 and 1568 by Jacques Barozzio. It is from this palace that a portico starts, which goes to the Palazzo dell'Archginnasio, medieval seat of the University of Bologna, its anatomical theater, today one of the most beautiful and rich European libraries.
This square developed in the 13th century, when the Bolognese saw the importance of having a square intended for the market. Many popular buildings in the area were purchased by the Commune and then demolished.
It was only in the 15th century that the square adopted its current form, while in the 16th century the entire area was redeveloped by papal will and its intermediary, Cardinal Legate Charles Borromeo. The Piazza del Nettuno was built with its fountain as well as the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio.
Piazza del Popolo is a famous square in Rome, Italy. The descriptions that follow rely heavily on Rick Steves' Rome (where his "La Dolce Vita" stroll starts) and Wikipedia.
We'll start with location. Piazza del Popolo is located just inside the Porta del Popolo (formerly Porta Flaminia). This was the northern entrance into medieval Rome.
Sidebar (already??): Porta Flaminia...marked the end of Via Flaminia, the ancient road that connected the Adriatic (going due north over the Apennines), and then along the Adriatic coast into central Europe.
There was once a German minister from Wittenberg who walked 700 miles down here in 1510 and came right through this gate...was shocked by the corruption he found in the city (an extension of the church), and promptly decided to begin a counterreformation. His name was Martin Luther.
I'm sure a handful of others have waked through these gates over time. Rome was the equivalent of Mecca for Christians and the pilgrims primarily arrived at this gate. There are a few more tourists than pilgrims at this point.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Back to the story of the piazza...
History:
Before getting to the 1475 facelift from Pope Sixtus IV.
The most interesting history here is centered around the church immediately to your left when you walk through the Porta del Popolo. This is Santa Maria del Popolo.
The church was originally founded/created/formed by Pope Paschal II in 1099 A.D. (What we get to look at now is a result of the Sistine restoration of the square in the 1470s; more on that to follow.)
The formation of this church has as much to do with Imperial Roman history and legend as anything.
Emperor Nero, after committing suicide, was buried in the mausoleum of his family at the foot of the Pincian Hill (guess what hill that is directly behind the east fountain?).
There was a landslide at one point, and the Domitii Ahenobarbi went down for the count. On top of it, a rather impressive walnut tree grew. The walnut tree, magnificent as it was, apparently came laden with "evil spirits." This wasn't the best thing to have as a first impression for visitors to your fine town.
So, as Wikipedia explains, "On the Thursday after the third Sunday in Lent in 1099, the Pope organized the entire clergy and populace of Rome in one impressive procession that, with the crucifix at its head, went along the urban stretch of the Via Flaminia until it reached the infested place. There, Paschal II performed the rite of exorcism and then struck the walnut tree with a determined blow to its root, causing the evil spirits to burst forth, madly screaming. When the tree was removed, the remains of Nero were discovered among the ruins; the Pope ordered these thrown into the Tiber." ...and since then, we have ourselves a church. (Church records from 1099 until the restoration seem sparse, unfortunately.)
As for the church now, it has a "who's who" of Italian art. The famous Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael...second on the left from the entrance...emphasized humanism and was inspired by the Pantheon. The Della Rovere Chapel -- immediately to the right of the entrance -- showcases 1400s realism with Pinturicchio's Nativity with St. Jerome. The Cerasi Chapel -- left of the main altar -- highlights Baroque art with Carracci's Assumption of Mary (center) with the two real highlights being the Caravaggio's on either side: Conversion of St. Paul (1601) is on the right, and Crucifixion of St. Peter is on the left.
The sad news, for anyone visiting between September 2023 and November 2024 (like me, in November 2023), is that you won't be able to see any of this. The church interior is undergoing a restoration.
Speaking of restorations, let's take an overall look at the piazza from just inside the Porta del Popolo.
Pope Sixtus IV, realizing that this square, after centuries of decline, wasn't making a grand first impression (or even a good one, apparently), established eminent domain so the church could steal the land, clear it of unsightly buildings, and improve this piazza. Bernini had a hand in one of the subsequent upkeep efforts (namely in the design of the "twin" churches directly in front of you, but the main layout at the moment is compliments of Giuseppe Valadier who, from 1811-22, designed this in the loose image of St. Peter's Square, with its neoclassical symmetry and oval shape.
At the center of it all is the Flaminio (Popolo) Obelisk. Three sides were carved by pharoah Sety I, with the final side by Ramses II. (Ramses is considered to be one of the most powerful pharoahs in Egyptian history -- if not the most famous. He ran Egypt from 1279-11 B.C.)
In 10 B.C. Emperor Augustus had this obelisk moved over and stuck right in the middle of Circus Maximus. It was finally moved over here to Piazza del Popolo in 1589 (during the "upgrade" of Pope Sixtus V).
Focus your gaze to the two seemingly identical churches beyond the obelisk. You're looking at Santa Maria di Montesanto (1679, on the left) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (1681, on the right). They're small churches, due to space constrictions. They were begun by Carlo Rainaldi, but completely by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. If you look closely, these aren't perfect twins. Bernini had to make a few minor corrections to make them seem as similar as possible.
The two churches exist there as they are split by three important and ancient pilgrim routes (converging here in "the Trident/il Tridente"). From left to right, they are:
Via del Babuino (yeah, that means "baboon") opened as the Via Paulina in 1525. This one was a pilgrim's route to Santa Maria Maggiore & Saint John in Laterano, but now goes to Piazza di Spagna.
Via del Corso. This was one of ancient Rome's "main streets" and, at about 1.6 kilometers, connects the city gate here with Piazza Venezia (at the foot of Capitoline Hill near the Forum). Nowadays, it's lined with churches, the Piazza Colonna (about halfway down), and shopping. Having been planned in 220 B.C., this was basically part of Via Flaminia. This road has gone through a few name changes. "Corso" refers to its history as being a racetrack for riderless horses (corsa dei barbieri) during the Roman Carnival since the 15th century. After King Umberto I's assassination in 1900, this was changed to Corso Umberto I. In 1944, it was changed to Corso del Popolo and finally in 1946 back to...Via del Corso.
Via di Ripetta, on the right, was the road that would take you near the Vatican, after running you by the Mausoleum of Augustus on the Tiber.
Step forward towards the obelisk, and you'll see two fairly big fountains at the eastern and western edges of the piazza.
On the western (right) side, you'll see two fountains. These were created by Giovanni Ceccarini in the 1820s. On the west (right) end, you have the Fontana del Nettuno. On the east (left) end, at the base of the Pincian Hill, you have Rome between the Tiber and the Aniene. Directly above that, you can see the Terrazza del Pincio in the Villa Borghese Gardens.
That does it for descriptions. Last notes...if you want to enjoy Santa Maria del Popolo (after it reopens) in relative solitude, try coming before 8:00 a.m. More fun, though, is to do what the locals do: the passeggiata is a nightly occurrence. Locals come here to take their stroll, to see, and be seen. It's a good spot for night life, and this is a great starting point. Split the churches, walk down Via del Corso, and enjoy "La dolce vita," as Rick Steves would say.
2023_12_25 The Fountain of Neptune Bologna Emilia-Romagna Italy
The Fountain of Neptune (Italian: Fontana di Nettuno) is a monumental civic fountain located in the eponymous square, Piazza del Nettuno, next to Piazza Maggiore, in Bologna, Italy[1] The fountain is a model example of Mannerist taste of the Italian courtly elite in the mid-sixteenth century.
History
The construction of the fountain was commissioned by the Cardinal Legate Charles Borromeo, to symbolize the fortunate recent election of Borromeo's uncle as Pope Pius IV. To clear space for the fountain, an entire edifice had to be demolished.
The design and assembly of the fountain was completed by the Palermitan architect Tommaso Laureti in 1563. The fountain was completed in 1565.[2] The over-life-size bronze figure of the god Neptune was completed and fixed in place around 1566. The statue was an early design by Giambologna,[3] who had submitted a model for the Fountain of Neptune in Florence, but had lost the commission to Baccio Bandinelli.
Neptune Fountain has its base on three steps, on which it is situated a tank made of the local boulder and covered by marble of Verona. In the centre of the tank, there is a base where there are four Nereids holding their breasts, from which jets of water emerge. The base is decorated with pontifical emblems, ornaments that – connected to four cherubs – hold dolphins (which are allegorical representation of major rivers from the then-known corners of the world: the Ganges, the Nile, the Amazon River, and the Danube. In the centre of this base raises the majestic figure of the Neptune sculpted by Giambologna's; the statue is a typical expressions of the manneristic theatricality.
The Neptune stretches his left hand in a lordly gesture, appearing to be aiming to placate the waves; this posture is interpreted as symbolic exaltation of the new power of the Pope Pius IV: just as Neptune was the master of the seas, the Pope was the master of Bologna and of the world.
Inscriptions
On the four sides of the marble tank there are four inscriptions in Latin provide the background to the fountain's construction:
1. Fori Ornamento (to decorate the square);
2. Aere Publico (built thanks to public money);
3. Populi Commodo (built for the people);
4. MDLXIIII (built in 1564; the date is wrong though, since the fountain was officially finished in 1566).
The four main sources of political power for Bologna then are also inscribed on the base:
1. Pius IIII Pont. Max (Pope Pius IV)
2. Petrus Donatus Caesius Gubernator; (Governor Pier Donato Cesi)
3. Carolus Borromaeus Cardinalis; (Cardinal Carlo Borromeo)
4. S.P.Q.B. (Senatus Populusque Bonononiensis) (Senate and the People of Bologna)
Symbolism
The trident of the Neptune's statue inspired and it was used by Maserati brothers as emblem for their first car, the Maserati Tipo 26. The logo was realized in 1920 by one of the brothers, Mario Maserati, at the suggestion of a family friend, Marquis Diego de Sterlich. This is still today the logo of the Maserati car company [4]
The fountain and its sculpture are one of the most iconic symbols of the city and references to them can be found in many symbols, commercials and logos. This includes the historical students' fraternity (Goliardia) "Excelsa Neptuni Balla", on whose emblem figure two tridents.
Lippo di Dalmasio:
Maria mit dem Kind
1399
Die Kapelle Unserer Lieben Frau vom Gebet wurde um das Bildnis Unserer Lieben Frau herum gebaut, das von Lippo di Dalmasio im Jahr 1399 gemalt und an der Außenwand der Kirche S. Columbano angebracht wurde. Die Bruderschaft Unserer Lieben Frau vom Gebet errichtete die Kapelle zu Ehren Unserer Lieben Frau und der Grundstein wurde am 5. August 1591 gelegt. Die Ausschmückung des Inneren wurde der Schule von Carracci anvertraut.
Museo di San Colombano - Collezione Tagliavini
Piazza del Popolo is a famous square in Rome, Italy. The descriptions that follow rely heavily on Rick Steves' Rome (where his "La Dolce Vita" stroll starts) and Wikipedia.
We'll start with location. Piazza del Popolo is located just inside the Porta del Popolo (formerly Porta Flaminia). This was the northern entrance into medieval Rome.
Sidebar (already??): Porta Flaminia...marked the end of Via Flaminia, the ancient road that connected the Adriatic (going due north over the Apennines), and then along the Adriatic coast into central Europe.
There was once a German minister from Wittenberg who walked 700 miles down here in 1510 and came right through this gate...was shocked by the corruption he found in the city (an extension of the church), and promptly decided to begin a counterreformation. His name was Martin Luther.
I'm sure a handful of others have waked through these gates over time. Rome was the equivalent of Mecca for Christians and the pilgrims primarily arrived at this gate. There are a few more tourists than pilgrims at this point.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Back to the story of the piazza...
History:
Before getting to the 1475 facelift from Pope Sixtus IV.
The most interesting history here is centered around the church immediately to your left when you walk through the Porta del Popolo. This is Santa Maria del Popolo.
The church was originally founded/created/formed by Pope Paschal II in 1099 A.D. (What we get to look at now is a result of the Sistine restoration of the square in the 1470s; more on that to follow.)
The formation of this church has as much to do with Imperial Roman history and legend as anything.
Emperor Nero, after committing suicide, was buried in the mausoleum of his family at the foot of the Pincian Hill (guess what hill that is directly behind the east fountain?).
There was a landslide at one point, and the Domitii Ahenobarbi went down for the count. On top of it, a rather impressive walnut tree grew. The walnut tree, magnificent as it was, apparently came laden with "evil spirits." This wasn't the best thing to have as a first impression for visitors to your fine town.
So, as Wikipedia explains, "On the Thursday after the third Sunday in Lent in 1099, the Pope organized the entire clergy and populace of Rome in one impressive procession that, with the crucifix at its head, went along the urban stretch of the Via Flaminia until it reached the infested place. There, Paschal II performed the rite of exorcism and then struck the walnut tree with a determined blow to its root, causing the evil spirits to burst forth, madly screaming. When the tree was removed, the remains of Nero were discovered among the ruins; the Pope ordered these thrown into the Tiber." ...and since then, we have ourselves a church. (Church records from 1099 until the restoration seem sparse, unfortunately.)
As for the church now, it has a "who's who" of Italian art. The famous Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael...second on the left from the entrance...emphasized humanism and was inspired by the Pantheon. The Della Rovere Chapel -- immediately to the right of the entrance -- showcases 1400s realism with Pinturicchio's Nativity with St. Jerome. The Cerasi Chapel -- left of the main altar -- highlights Baroque art with Carracci's Assumption of Mary (center) with the two real highlights being the Caravaggio's on either side: Conversion of St. Paul (1601) is on the right, and Crucifixion of St. Peter is on the left.
The sad news, for anyone visiting between September 2023 and November 2024 (like me, in November 2023), is that you won't be able to see any of this. The church interior is undergoing a restoration.
Speaking of restorations, let's take an overall look at the piazza from just inside the Porta del Popolo.
Pope Sixtus IV, realizing that this square, after centuries of decline, wasn't making a grand first impression (or even a good one, apparently), established eminent domain so the church could steal the land, clear it of unsightly buildings, and improve this piazza. Bernini had a hand in one of the subsequent upkeep efforts (namely in the design of the "twin" churches directly in front of you, but the main layout at the moment is compliments of Giuseppe Valadier who, from 1811-22, designed this in the loose image of St. Peter's Square, with its neoclassical symmetry and oval shape.
At the center of it all is the Flaminio (Popolo) Obelisk. Three sides were carved by pharoah Sety I, with the final side by Ramses II. (Ramses is considered to be one of the most powerful pharoahs in Egyptian history -- if not the most famous. He ran Egypt from 1279-11 B.C.)
In 10 B.C. Emperor Augustus had this obelisk moved over and stuck right in the middle of Circus Maximus. It was finally moved over here to Piazza del Popolo in 1589 (during the "upgrade" of Pope Sixtus V).
Focus your gaze to the two seemingly identical churches beyond the obelisk. You're looking at Santa Maria di Montesanto (1679, on the left) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (1681, on the right). They're small churches, due to space constrictions. They were begun by Carlo Rainaldi, but completely by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. If you look closely, these aren't perfect twins. Bernini had to make a few minor corrections to make them seem as similar as possible.
The two churches exist there as they are split by three important and ancient pilgrim routes (converging here in "the Trident/il Tridente"). From left to right, they are:
Via del Babuino (yeah, that means "baboon") opened as the Via Paulina in 1525. This one was a pilgrim's route to Santa Maria Maggiore & Saint John in Laterano, but now goes to Piazza di Spagna.
Via del Corso. This was one of ancient Rome's "main streets" and, at about 1.6 kilometers, connects the city gate here with Piazza Venezia (at the foot of Capitoline Hill near the Forum). Nowadays, it's lined with churches, the Piazza Colonna (about halfway down), and shopping. Having been planned in 220 B.C., this was basically part of Via Flaminia. This road has gone through a few name changes. "Corso" refers to its history as being a racetrack for riderless horses (corsa dei barbieri) during the Roman Carnival since the 15th century. After King Umberto I's assassination in 1900, this was changed to Corso Umberto I. In 1944, it was changed to Corso del Popolo and finally in 1946 back to...Via del Corso.
Via di Ripetta, on the right, was the road that would take you near the Vatican, after running you by the Mausoleum of Augustus on the Tiber.
Step forward towards the obelisk, and you'll see two fairly big fountains at the eastern and western edges of the piazza.
On the western (right) side, you'll see two fountains. These were created by Giovanni Ceccarini in the 1820s. On the west (right) end, you have the Fontana del Nettuno. On the east (left) end, at the base of the Pincian Hill, you have Rome between the Tiber and the Aniene. Directly above that, you can see the Terrazza del Pincio in the Villa Borghese Gardens.
That does it for descriptions. Last notes...if you want to enjoy Santa Maria del Popolo (after it reopens) in relative solitude, try coming before 8:00 a.m. More fun, though, is to do what the locals do: the passeggiata is a nightly occurrence. Locals come here to take their stroll, to see, and be seen. It's a good spot for night life, and this is a great starting point. Split the churches, walk down Via del Corso, and enjoy "La dolce vita," as Rick Steves would say.
Piazza del Popolo is a famous square in Rome, Italy. The descriptions that follow rely heavily on Rick Steves' Rome (where his "La Dolce Vita" stroll starts) and Wikipedia.
We'll start with location. Piazza del Popolo is located just inside the Porta del Popolo (formerly Porta Flaminia). This was the northern entrance into medieval Rome.
Sidebar (already??): Porta Flaminia...marked the end of Via Flaminia, the ancient road that connected the Adriatic (going due north over the Apennines), and then along the Adriatic coast into central Europe.
There was once a German minister from Wittenberg who walked 700 miles down here in 1510 and came right through this gate...was shocked by the corruption he found in the city (an extension of the church), and promptly decided to begin a counterreformation. His name was Martin Luther.
I'm sure a handful of others have waked through these gates over time. Rome was the equivalent of Mecca for Christians and the pilgrims primarily arrived at this gate. There are a few more tourists than pilgrims at this point.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Back to the story of the piazza...
History:
Before getting to the 1475 facelift from Pope Sixtus IV.
The most interesting history here is centered around the church immediately to your left when you walk through the Porta del Popolo. This is Santa Maria del Popolo.
The church was originally founded/created/formed by Pope Paschal II in 1099 A.D. (What we get to look at now is a result of the Sistine restoration of the square in the 1470s; more on that to follow.)
The formation of this church has as much to do with Imperial Roman history and legend as anything.
Emperor Nero, after committing suicide, was buried in the mausoleum of his family at the foot of the Pincian Hill (guess what hill that is directly behind the east fountain?).
There was a landslide at one point, and the Domitii Ahenobarbi went down for the count. On top of it, a rather impressive walnut tree grew. The walnut tree, magnificent as it was, apparently came laden with "evil spirits." This wasn't the best thing to have as a first impression for visitors to your fine town.
So, as Wikipedia explains, "On the Thursday after the third Sunday in Lent in 1099, the Pope organized the entire clergy and populace of Rome in one impressive procession that, with the crucifix at its head, went along the urban stretch of the Via Flaminia until it reached the infested place. There, Paschal II performed the rite of exorcism and then struck the walnut tree with a determined blow to its root, causing the evil spirits to burst forth, madly screaming. When the tree was removed, the remains of Nero were discovered among the ruins; the Pope ordered these thrown into the Tiber." ...and since then, we have ourselves a church. (Church records from 1099 until the restoration seem sparse, unfortunately.)
As for the church now, it has a "who's who" of Italian art. The famous Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael...second on the left from the entrance...emphasized humanism and was inspired by the Pantheon. The Della Rovere Chapel -- immediately to the right of the entrance -- showcases 1400s realism with Pinturicchio's Nativity with St. Jerome. The Cerasi Chapel -- left of the main altar -- highlights Baroque art with Carracci's Assumption of Mary (center) with the two real highlights being the Caravaggio's on either side: Conversion of St. Paul (1601) is on the right, and Crucifixion of St. Peter is on the left.
The sad news, for anyone visiting between September 2023 and November 2024 (like me, in November 2023), is that you won't be able to see any of this. The church interior is undergoing a restoration.
Speaking of restorations, let's take an overall look at the piazza from just inside the Porta del Popolo.
Pope Sixtus IV, realizing that this square, after centuries of decline, wasn't making a grand first impression (or even a good one, apparently), established eminent domain so the church could steal the land, clear it of unsightly buildings, and improve this piazza. Bernini had a hand in one of the subsequent upkeep efforts (namely in the design of the "twin" churches directly in front of you, but the main layout at the moment is compliments of Giuseppe Valadier who, from 1811-22, designed this in the loose image of St. Peter's Square, with its neoclassical symmetry and oval shape.
At the center of it all is the Flaminio (Popolo) Obelisk. Three sides were carved by pharoah Sety I, with the final side by Ramses II. (Ramses is considered to be one of the most powerful pharoahs in Egyptian history -- if not the most famous. He ran Egypt from 1279-11 B.C.)
In 10 B.C. Emperor Augustus had this obelisk moved over and stuck right in the middle of Circus Maximus. It was finally moved over here to Piazza del Popolo in 1589 (during the "upgrade" of Pope Sixtus V).
Focus your gaze to the two seemingly identical churches beyond the obelisk. You're looking at Santa Maria di Montesanto (1679, on the left) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (1681, on the right). They're small churches, due to space constrictions. They were begun by Carlo Rainaldi, but completely by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. If you look closely, these aren't perfect twins. Bernini had to make a few minor corrections to make them seem as similar as possible.
The two churches exist there as they are split by three important and ancient pilgrim routes (converging here in "the Trident/il Tridente"). From left to right, they are:
Via del Babuino (yeah, that means "baboon") opened as the Via Paulina in 1525. This one was a pilgrim's route to Santa Maria Maggiore & Saint John in Laterano, but now goes to Piazza di Spagna.
Via del Corso. This was one of ancient Rome's "main streets" and, at about 1.6 kilometers, connects the city gate here with Piazza Venezia (at the foot of Capitoline Hill near the Forum). Nowadays, it's lined with churches, the Piazza Colonna (about halfway down), and shopping. Having been planned in 220 B.C., this was basically part of Via Flaminia. This road has gone through a few name changes. "Corso" refers to its history as being a racetrack for riderless horses (corsa dei barbieri) during the Roman Carnival since the 15th century. After King Umberto I's assassination in 1900, this was changed to Corso Umberto I. In 1944, it was changed to Corso del Popolo and finally in 1946 back to...Via del Corso.
Via di Ripetta, on the right, was the road that would take you near the Vatican, after running you by the Mausoleum of Augustus on the Tiber.
Step forward towards the obelisk, and you'll see two fairly big fountains at the eastern and western edges of the piazza.
On the western (right) side, you'll see two fountains. These were created by Giovanni Ceccarini in the 1820s. On the west (right) end, you have the Fontana del Nettuno. On the east (left) end, at the base of the Pincian Hill, you have Rome between the Tiber and the Aniene. Directly above that, you can see the Terrazza del Pincio in the Villa Borghese Gardens.
That does it for descriptions. Last notes...if you want to enjoy Santa Maria del Popolo (after it reopens) in relative solitude, try coming before 8:00 a.m. More fun, though, is to do what the locals do: the passeggiata is a nightly occurrence. Locals come here to take their stroll, to see, and be seen. It's a good spot for night life, and this is a great starting point. Split the churches, walk down Via del Corso, and enjoy "La dolce vita," as Rick Steves would say.
2023_12_25 Bologna Emilia-Romagna Italy
Palazzo dei Notai (SW) - former notaries' guild
Bologna is a city in and the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region in Northern Italy, of which it is also its largest. It is the seventh most populous city in Italy, with about 400,000 inhabitants and 150 different nationalities. Its metropolitan area is home to more than 1,000,000 people. It is known as the Fat City for its rich cuisine, and the Red City for its red tiled rooftops and, more recently, its leftist politics. It is also called the Learned City because it is home to the oldest university in the world.
Originally Etruscan, the city has been an important urban center for centuries, first under the Etruscans (who called it Felsina), then under the Celts as Bona, later under the Romans (BonÅnia), then again in the Middle Ages, as a free municipality and later signoria, when it was among the largest European cities by population. Famous for its towers, churches and lengthy porticoes, Bologna has a well-preserved historical center, thanks to a careful restoration and conservation policy which began at the end of the 1970s. Home to the oldest university in continuous operation, the University of Bologna, established in AD 1088, the city has a large student population that gives it a cosmopolitan character. In 2000, it was declared European capital of culture and in 2006, a UNESCO "City of Music" and became part of the Creative Cities Network. In 2021, UNESCO recognized the lengthy porticoes of the city as a World Heritage Site.
Bologna is an important agricultural, industrial, financial and transport hub, where many large mechanical, electronic and food companies have their headquarters as well as one of the largest permanent trade fairs in Europe. According to recent data gathered by the European Regional Economic Growth Index (E-REGI) of 2009, Bologna is the first Italian city and the 47th European city in terms of its economic growth rate; in 2022, Il Sole 24 Ore named Bologna the best city in Italy for overall quality of life.
History
History
Antiquity and Middle Ages
Traces of human habitation in the area of ââBologna go back to the 3rd millennium BCE, with significant settlements from about the 9th century BCE (Villanovan culture). The influence of Etruscan civilization reached the area in the 7th to 6th centuries, and the Etruscan city of Felsina was established at the site of Bologna by the end of the 6th century. By the 4th century BCE, the site was occupied by the Gaulish Boii, and it became a Roman colony and municipium with the name of BonÅnia in 196 BCE. During the declining years of the Western Roman Empire Bologna was repeatedly sacked by the Goths. It is in this period that legendary Bishop Petronius, according to ancient chronicles, rebuilt the ruined town and founded the basilica of Saint Stephen. Petronius is still revered as the patron saint of Bologna.
In 727â28, the city was sacked and captured by the Lombards under King Liutprand, becoming part of that kingdom. These Germanic conquerors built an important new quarter, called "addizione longobarda" (Italian meaning "Longobard addition") near the complex of St. Stephen. In the last quarter of the 8th century, Charlemagne, at the request of Pope Adrian I, invaded the Lombard Kingdom, causing its eventual demise. Occupied by Frankish troops in 774 on behalf of the papacy, Bologna remained under imperial authority and prospered as a frontier mark of the Carolingian empire.
Bologna was the center of a revived study of law, including the scholar Irnerius c 1050 â after 1125) and his famous students, the Four Doctors of Bologna.
After the death of Matilda of Tuscany in 1115, Bologna obtained substantial concessions from Emperor Henry V. However, when Frederick Barbarossa subsequently attempted to strike down the deal, Bologna joined the Lombard League, which then defeated the imperial armies at the Battle of Legnano and established an effective autonomy at the Peace of Constance in 1183. Subsequently, the town began to expand rapidly and became one of the main commercial trade centers of northern Italy thanks to a system of canals that allowed barges and ships to come and go. Believed to have been established in 1088, the University of Bologna is widely considered the world's oldest university in continuous operation. The university originated as a center for the study of medieval Roman law under major glossators, including Irnerius. It numbered Dante, Boccaccio and Petrarch among its students.The medical school was especially renowned. By 1200, Bologna was a thriving commercial and artisanal center of about 10,000 people.
During a campaign to support the imperial cities of Modena and Cremona against Bologna, Frederick II's son, King Enzo of Sardinia, was defeated and captured on 26 May 1249 at the Battle of Fossalta. Though the emperor demanded his release, Enzo was thenceforth kept a knightly prisoner in Bologna, in a palace that came to be named Palazzo Re Enzo after him. Every attempt to escape or to rescue him failed, and he died after more than 22 years in captivity. After the death of his half-brothers Conrad IV in 1254, Frederick of Antioch in 1256 and Manfred in 1266, as well as the execution of his nephew Conradin in 1268, he was the last of the Hohenstaufen heirs.
During the late 1200s, Bologna was affected by political instability when the most prominent families incessantly fought for the control of the town. The free commune was severely weakened by decades of infighting, allowing the Pope to impose the rule of his envoy Cardinal Bertrand du Pouget in 1327. Du Pouget was eventually ousted by a popular rebellion and Bologna became a signoria under Taddeo Pepoli in 1334. By the arrival of the Black Death in 1348, Bologna had 40,000 to 50,000 inhabitants, reduced to just 20,000 to 25,000 after the plague.
Early modern
The period of Papal rule over Bologna (1506â1796) has been generally evaluated by historians as one of severe decline. However, this was not evident in the 1500s, which were marked by some major developments in Bologna. In 1530, Emperor Charles V was crowned in Bologna, the last of the Holy Roman Emperors to be crowned by the pope. In 1564, the Piazza del Nettuno and the Palazzo dei Banchi were built, along with the Archiginnasio, the main building of the university. The period of Papal rule also saw the construction of many churches and other religious establishments, and the restoration of older ones. At this time, Bologna had ninety-six convents, more than any other Italian city. Painters working in Bologna during this period established the Bolognese School which includes Annibale Carracci, Domenichino, Guercino, and others of European fame.
The period of Papal rule over Bologna (1506â1796) has been generally evaluated by historians as one of severe decline. However, this was not evident in the 1500s, which were marked by some major developments in Bologna. In 1530, Emperor Charles V was crowned in Bologna, the last of the Holy Roman Emperors to be crowned by the pope. In 1564, the Piazza del Nettuno and the Palazzo dei Banchi were built, along with the Archiginnasio, the main building of the university. The period of Papal rule also saw the construction of many churches and other religious establishments, and the restoration of older ones. At this time, Bologna had ninety-six convents, more than any other Italian city. Painters working in Bologna during this period established the Bolognese School which includes Annibale Carracci, Domenichino, Guercino, and others of European fame.
It was only towards the end of the 16th century that severe signs of decline began to manifest. A series of plagues in the late 16th to early 17th century reduced the population of the city from some 72,000 in the mid-16th century to about 47,000 by 1630. During the 1629â1631 Italian plague alone, Bologna lost up to a third of its population. In the mid-17th century, the population stabilized at roughly 60,000, slowly increasing to some 70,000 by the mid-18th century. The economy of Bologna started to show signs of severe decline as the global centers of trade shifted towards the Atlantic. The traditional silk industry was in a critical state. The university was losing students, who once came from all over Europe, because of the illiberal attitudes of the Church towards culture (especially after the trial of Galileo). Bologna continued to suffer a progressive deindustrialization also in the 18th century.
In the mid-1700s, Pope Benedict XIV, a Bolognese, tried to reverse the decline of the city with a series of reforms intended to stimulate the economy and promote the arts. However, these reforms achieved only mixed results. The pope's efforts to stimulate the decaying textile industry had little success, while he was more successful in reforming the tax system, liberalizing trade and relaxing the oppressive system of censorship.
The economic and demographic decline of Bologna became even more noticeable starting in the second half of the 18th century. In 1790, the city had 72,000 inhabitants, ranking as the second largest in the Papal States; however, this figure had remained unchanged for decades.
During this period, Papal economic policies included heavy customs duties and concessions of monopolies to single manufacturers.
Piazza del Popolo is a famous square in Rome, Italy. The descriptions that follow rely heavily on Rick Steves' Rome (where his "La Dolce Vita" stroll starts) and Wikipedia.
We'll start with location. Piazza del Popolo is located just inside the Porta del Popolo (formerly Porta Flaminia). This was the northern entrance into medieval Rome.
Sidebar (already??): Porta Flaminia...marked the end of Via Flaminia, the ancient road that connected the Adriatic (going due north over the Apennines), and then along the Adriatic coast into central Europe.
There was once a German minister from Wittenberg who walked 700 miles down here in 1510 and came right through this gate...was shocked by the corruption he found in the city (an extension of the church), and promptly decided to begin a counterreformation. His name was Martin Luther.
I'm sure a handful of others have waked through these gates over time. Rome was the equivalent of Mecca for Christians and the pilgrims primarily arrived at this gate. There are a few more tourists than pilgrims at this point.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Back to the story of the piazza...
History:
Before getting to the 1475 facelift from Pope Sixtus IV.
The most interesting history here is centered around the church immediately to your left when you walk through the Porta del Popolo. This is Santa Maria del Popolo.
The church was originally founded/created/formed by Pope Paschal II in 1099 A.D. (What we get to look at now is a result of the Sistine restoration of the square in the 1470s; more on that to follow.)
The formation of this church has as much to do with Imperial Roman history and legend as anything.
Emperor Nero, after committing suicide, was buried in the mausoleum of his family at the foot of the Pincian Hill (guess what hill that is directly behind the east fountain?).
There was a landslide at one point, and the Domitii Ahenobarbi went down for the count. On top of it, a rather impressive walnut tree grew. The walnut tree, magnificent as it was, apparently came laden with "evil spirits." This wasn't the best thing to have as a first impression for visitors to your fine town.
So, as Wikipedia explains, "On the Thursday after the third Sunday in Lent in 1099, the Pope organized the entire clergy and populace of Rome in one impressive procession that, with the crucifix at its head, went along the urban stretch of the Via Flaminia until it reached the infested place. There, Paschal II performed the rite of exorcism and then struck the walnut tree with a determined blow to its root, causing the evil spirits to burst forth, madly screaming. When the tree was removed, the remains of Nero were discovered among the ruins; the Pope ordered these thrown into the Tiber." ...and since then, we have ourselves a church. (Church records from 1099 until the restoration seem sparse, unfortunately.)
As for the church now, it has a "who's who" of Italian art. The famous Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael...second on the left from the entrance...emphasized humanism and was inspired by the Pantheon. The Della Rovere Chapel -- immediately to the right of the entrance -- showcases 1400s realism with Pinturicchio's Nativity with St. Jerome. The Cerasi Chapel -- left of the main altar -- highlights Baroque art with Carracci's Assumption of Mary (center) with the two real highlights being the Caravaggio's on either side: Conversion of St. Paul (1601) is on the right, and Crucifixion of St. Peter is on the left.
The sad news, for anyone visiting between September 2023 and November 2024 (like me, in November 2023), is that you won't be able to see any of this. The church interior is undergoing a restoration.
Speaking of restorations, let's take an overall look at the piazza from just inside the Porta del Popolo.
Pope Sixtus IV, realizing that this square, after centuries of decline, wasn't making a grand first impression (or even a good one, apparently), established eminent domain so the church could steal the land, clear it of unsightly buildings, and improve this piazza. Bernini had a hand in one of the subsequent upkeep efforts (namely in the design of the "twin" churches directly in front of you, but the main layout at the moment is compliments of Giuseppe Valadier who, from 1811-22, designed this in the loose image of St. Peter's Square, with its neoclassical symmetry and oval shape.
At the center of it all is the Flaminio (Popolo) Obelisk. Three sides were carved by pharoah Sety I, with the final side by Ramses II. (Ramses is considered to be one of the most powerful pharoahs in Egyptian history -- if not the most famous. He ran Egypt from 1279-11 B.C.)
In 10 B.C. Emperor Augustus had this obelisk moved over and stuck right in the middle of Circus Maximus. It was finally moved over here to Piazza del Popolo in 1589 (during the "upgrade" of Pope Sixtus V).
Focus your gaze to the two seemingly identical churches beyond the obelisk. You're looking at Santa Maria di Montesanto (1679, on the left) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (1681, on the right). They're small churches, due to space constrictions. They were begun by Carlo Rainaldi, but completely by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. If you look closely, these aren't perfect twins. Bernini had to make a few minor corrections to make them seem as similar as possible.
The two churches exist there as they are split by three important and ancient pilgrim routes (converging here in "the Trident/il Tridente"). From left to right, they are:
Via del Babuino (yeah, that means "baboon") opened as the Via Paulina in 1525. This one was a pilgrim's route to Santa Maria Maggiore & Saint John in Laterano, but now goes to Piazza di Spagna.
Via del Corso. This was one of ancient Rome's "main streets" and, at about 1.6 kilometers, connects the city gate here with Piazza Venezia (at the foot of Capitoline Hill near the Forum). Nowadays, it's lined with churches, the Piazza Colonna (about halfway down), and shopping. Having been planned in 220 B.C., this was basically part of Via Flaminia. This road has gone through a few name changes. "Corso" refers to its history as being a racetrack for riderless horses (corsa dei barbieri) during the Roman Carnival since the 15th century. After King Umberto I's assassination in 1900, this was changed to Corso Umberto I. In 1944, it was changed to Corso del Popolo and finally in 1946 back to...Via del Corso.
Via di Ripetta, on the right, was the road that would take you near the Vatican, after running you by the Mausoleum of Augustus on the Tiber.
Step forward towards the obelisk, and you'll see two fairly big fountains at the eastern and western edges of the piazza.
On the western (right) side, you'll see two fountains. These were created by Giovanni Ceccarini in the 1820s. On the west (right) end, you have the Fontana del Nettuno. On the east (left) end, at the base of the Pincian Hill, you have Rome between the Tiber and the Aniene. Directly above that, you can see the Terrazza del Pincio in the Villa Borghese Gardens.
That does it for descriptions. Last notes...if you want to enjoy Santa Maria del Popolo (after it reopens) in relative solitude, try coming before 8:00 a.m. More fun, though, is to do what the locals do: the passeggiata is a nightly occurrence. Locals come here to take their stroll, to see, and be seen. It's a good spot for night life, and this is a great starting point. Split the churches, walk down Via del Corso, and enjoy "La dolce vita," as Rick Steves would say.
Piazza del Popolo is a famous square in Rome, Italy. The descriptions that follow rely heavily on Rick Steves' Rome (where his "La Dolce Vita" stroll starts) and Wikipedia.
We'll start with location. Piazza del Popolo is located just inside the Porta del Popolo (formerly Porta Flaminia). This was the northern entrance into medieval Rome.
Sidebar (already??): Porta Flaminia...marked the end of Via Flaminia, the ancient road that connected the Adriatic (going due north over the Apennines), and then along the Adriatic coast into central Europe.
There was once a German minister from Wittenberg who walked 700 miles down here in 1510 and came right through this gate...was shocked by the corruption he found in the city (an extension of the church), and promptly decided to begin a counterreformation. His name was Martin Luther.
I'm sure a handful of others have waked through these gates over time. Rome was the equivalent of Mecca for Christians and the pilgrims primarily arrived at this gate. There are a few more tourists than pilgrims at this point.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Back to the story of the piazza...
History:
Before getting to the 1475 facelift from Pope Sixtus IV.
The most interesting history here is centered around the church immediately to your left when you walk through the Porta del Popolo. This is Santa Maria del Popolo.
The church was originally founded/created/formed by Pope Paschal II in 1099 A.D. (What we get to look at now is a result of the Sistine restoration of the square in the 1470s; more on that to follow.)
The formation of this church has as much to do with Imperial Roman history and legend as anything.
Emperor Nero, after committing suicide, was buried in the mausoleum of his family at the foot of the Pincian Hill (guess what hill that is directly behind the east fountain?).
There was a landslide at one point, and the Domitii Ahenobarbi went down for the count. On top of it, a rather impressive walnut tree grew. The walnut tree, magnificent as it was, apparently came laden with "evil spirits." This wasn't the best thing to have as a first impression for visitors to your fine town.
So, as Wikipedia explains, "On the Thursday after the third Sunday in Lent in 1099, the Pope organized the entire clergy and populace of Rome in one impressive procession that, with the crucifix at its head, went along the urban stretch of the Via Flaminia until it reached the infested place. There, Paschal II performed the rite of exorcism and then struck the walnut tree with a determined blow to its root, causing the evil spirits to burst forth, madly screaming. When the tree was removed, the remains of Nero were discovered among the ruins; the Pope ordered these thrown into the Tiber." ...and since then, we have ourselves a church. (Church records from 1099 until the restoration seem sparse, unfortunately.)
As for the church now, it has a "who's who" of Italian art. The famous Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael...second on the left from the entrance...emphasized humanism and was inspired by the Pantheon. The Della Rovere Chapel -- immediately to the right of the entrance -- showcases 1400s realism with Pinturicchio's Nativity with St. Jerome. The Cerasi Chapel -- left of the main altar -- highlights Baroque art with Carracci's Assumption of Mary (center) with the two real highlights being the Caravaggio's on either side: Conversion of St. Paul (1601) is on the right, and Crucifixion of St. Peter is on the left.
The sad news, for anyone visiting between September 2023 and November 2024 (like me, in November 2023), is that you won't be able to see any of this. The church interior is undergoing a restoration.
Speaking of restorations, let's take an overall look at the piazza from just inside the Porta del Popolo.
Pope Sixtus IV, realizing that this square, after centuries of decline, wasn't making a grand first impression (or even a good one, apparently), established eminent domain so the church could steal the land, clear it of unsightly buildings, and improve this piazza. Bernini had a hand in one of the subsequent upkeep efforts (namely in the design of the "twin" churches directly in front of you, but the main layout at the moment is compliments of Giuseppe Valadier who, from 1811-22, designed this in the loose image of St. Peter's Square, with its neoclassical symmetry and oval shape.
At the center of it all is the Flaminio (Popolo) Obelisk. Three sides were carved by pharoah Sety I, with the final side by Ramses II. (Ramses is considered to be one of the most powerful pharoahs in Egyptian history -- if not the most famous. He ran Egypt from 1279-11 B.C.)
In 10 B.C. Emperor Augustus had this obelisk moved over and stuck right in the middle of Circus Maximus. It was finally moved over here to Piazza del Popolo in 1589 (during the "upgrade" of Pope Sixtus V).
Focus your gaze to the two seemingly identical churches beyond the obelisk. You're looking at Santa Maria di Montesanto (1679, on the left) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (1681, on the right). They're small churches, due to space constrictions. They were begun by Carlo Rainaldi, but completely by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. If you look closely, these aren't perfect twins. Bernini had to make a few minor corrections to make them seem as similar as possible.
The two churches exist there as they are split by three important and ancient pilgrim routes (converging here in "the Trident/il Tridente"). From left to right, they are:
Via del Babuino (yeah, that means "baboon") opened as the Via Paulina in 1525. This one was a pilgrim's route to Santa Maria Maggiore & Saint John in Laterano, but now goes to Piazza di Spagna.
Via del Corso. This was one of ancient Rome's "main streets" and, at about 1.6 kilometers, connects the city gate here with Piazza Venezia (at the foot of Capitoline Hill near the Forum). Nowadays, it's lined with churches, the Piazza Colonna (about halfway down), and shopping. Having been planned in 220 B.C., this was basically part of Via Flaminia. This road has gone through a few name changes. "Corso" refers to its history as being a racetrack for riderless horses (corsa dei barbieri) during the Roman Carnival since the 15th century. After King Umberto I's assassination in 1900, this was changed to Corso Umberto I. In 1944, it was changed to Corso del Popolo and finally in 1946 back to...Via del Corso.
Via di Ripetta, on the right, was the road that would take you near the Vatican, after running you by the Mausoleum of Augustus on the Tiber.
Step forward towards the obelisk, and you'll see two fairly big fountains at the eastern and western edges of the piazza.
On the western (right) side, you'll see two fountains. These were created by Giovanni Ceccarini in the 1820s. On the west (right) end, you have the Fontana del Nettuno. On the east (left) end, at the base of the Pincian Hill, you have Rome between the Tiber and the Aniene. Directly above that, you can see the Terrazza del Pincio in the Villa Borghese Gardens.
That does it for descriptions. Last notes...if you want to enjoy Santa Maria del Popolo (after it reopens) in relative solitude, try coming before 8:00 a.m. More fun, though, is to do what the locals do: the passeggiata is a nightly occurrence. Locals come here to take their stroll, to see, and be seen. It's a good spot for night life, and this is a great starting point. Split the churches, walk down Via del Corso, and enjoy "La dolce vita," as Rick Steves would say.
Annibale Carracci, Bologna 1560-Rome 1609, and collaborators, Pare Etern (Eternal Father), mural paintings from the Herrera Chapel dedicated to saint Dídac d’Alcalà, 1604-1606 at Museu Nacional d’Art Catalunya
Piazza del Popolo is a famous square in Rome, Italy. The descriptions that follow rely heavily on Rick Steves' Rome (where his "La Dolce Vita" stroll starts) and Wikipedia.
We'll start with location. Piazza del Popolo is located just inside the Porta del Popolo (formerly Porta Flaminia). This was the northern entrance into medieval Rome.
Sidebar (already??): Porta Flaminia...marked the end of Via Flaminia, the ancient road that connected the Adriatic (going due north over the Apennines), and then along the Adriatic coast into central Europe.
There was once a German minister from Wittenberg who walked 700 miles down here in 1510 and came right through this gate...was shocked by the corruption he found in the city (an extension of the church), and promptly decided to begin a counterreformation. His name was Martin Luther.
I'm sure a handful of others have waked through these gates over time. Rome was the equivalent of Mecca for Christians and the pilgrims primarily arrived at this gate. There are a few more tourists than pilgrims at this point.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Back to the story of the piazza...
History:
Before getting to the 1475 facelift from Pope Sixtus IV.
The most interesting history here is centered around the church immediately to your left when you walk through the Porta del Popolo. This is Santa Maria del Popolo.
The church was originally founded/created/formed by Pope Paschal II in 1099 A.D. (What we get to look at now is a result of the Sistine restoration of the square in the 1470s; more on that to follow.)
The formation of this church has as much to do with Imperial Roman history and legend as anything.
Emperor Nero, after committing suicide, was buried in the mausoleum of his family at the foot of the Pincian Hill (guess what hill that is directly behind the east fountain?).
There was a landslide at one point, and the Domitii Ahenobarbi went down for the count. On top of it, a rather impressive walnut tree grew. The walnut tree, magnificent as it was, apparently came laden with "evil spirits." This wasn't the best thing to have as a first impression for visitors to your fine town.
So, as Wikipedia explains, "On the Thursday after the third Sunday in Lent in 1099, the Pope organized the entire clergy and populace of Rome in one impressive procession that, with the crucifix at its head, went along the urban stretch of the Via Flaminia until it reached the infested place. There, Paschal II performed the rite of exorcism and then struck the walnut tree with a determined blow to its root, causing the evil spirits to burst forth, madly screaming. When the tree was removed, the remains of Nero were discovered among the ruins; the Pope ordered these thrown into the Tiber." ...and since then, we have ourselves a church. (Church records from 1099 until the restoration seem sparse, unfortunately.)
As for the church now, it has a "who's who" of Italian art. The famous Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael...second on the left from the entrance...emphasized humanism and was inspired by the Pantheon. The Della Rovere Chapel -- immediately to the right of the entrance -- showcases 1400s realism with Pinturicchio's Nativity with St. Jerome. The Cerasi Chapel -- left of the main altar -- highlights Baroque art with Carracci's Assumption of Mary (center) with the two real highlights being the Caravaggio's on either side: Conversion of St. Paul (1601) is on the right, and Crucifixion of St. Peter is on the left.
The sad news, for anyone visiting between September 2023 and November 2024 (like me, in November 2023), is that you won't be able to see any of this. The church interior is undergoing a restoration.
Speaking of restorations, let's take an overall look at the piazza from just inside the Porta del Popolo.
Pope Sixtus IV, realizing that this square, after centuries of decline, wasn't making a grand first impression (or even a good one, apparently), established eminent domain so the church could steal the land, clear it of unsightly buildings, and improve this piazza. Bernini had a hand in one of the subsequent upkeep efforts (namely in the design of the "twin" churches directly in front of you, but the main layout at the moment is compliments of Giuseppe Valadier who, from 1811-22, designed this in the loose image of St. Peter's Square, with its neoclassical symmetry and oval shape.
At the center of it all is the Flaminio (Popolo) Obelisk. Three sides were carved by pharoah Sety I, with the final side by Ramses II. (Ramses is considered to be one of the most powerful pharoahs in Egyptian history -- if not the most famous. He ran Egypt from 1279-11 B.C.)
In 10 B.C. Emperor Augustus had this obelisk moved over and stuck right in the middle of Circus Maximus. It was finally moved over here to Piazza del Popolo in 1589 (during the "upgrade" of Pope Sixtus V).
Focus your gaze to the two seemingly identical churches beyond the obelisk. You're looking at Santa Maria di Montesanto (1679, on the left) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (1681, on the right). They're small churches, due to space constrictions. They were begun by Carlo Rainaldi, but completely by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. If you look closely, these aren't perfect twins. Bernini had to make a few minor corrections to make them seem as similar as possible.
The two churches exist there as they are split by three important and ancient pilgrim routes (converging here in "the Trident/il Tridente"). From left to right, they are:
Via del Babuino (yeah, that means "baboon") opened as the Via Paulina in 1525. This one was a pilgrim's route to Santa Maria Maggiore & Saint John in Laterano, but now goes to Piazza di Spagna.
Via del Corso. This was one of ancient Rome's "main streets" and, at about 1.6 kilometers, connects the city gate here with Piazza Venezia (at the foot of Capitoline Hill near the Forum). Nowadays, it's lined with churches, the Piazza Colonna (about halfway down), and shopping. Having been planned in 220 B.C., this was basically part of Via Flaminia. This road has gone through a few name changes. "Corso" refers to its history as being a racetrack for riderless horses (corsa dei barbieri) during the Roman Carnival since the 15th century. After King Umberto I's assassination in 1900, this was changed to Corso Umberto I. In 1944, it was changed to Corso del Popolo and finally in 1946 back to...Via del Corso.
Via di Ripetta, on the right, was the road that would take you near the Vatican, after running you by the Mausoleum of Augustus on the Tiber.
Step forward towards the obelisk, and you'll see two fairly big fountains at the eastern and western edges of the piazza.
On the western (right) side, you'll see two fountains. These were created by Giovanni Ceccarini in the 1820s. On the west (right) end, you have the Fontana del Nettuno. On the east (left) end, at the base of the Pincian Hill, you have Rome between the Tiber and the Aniene. Directly above that, you can see the Terrazza del Pincio in the Villa Borghese Gardens.
That does it for descriptions. Last notes...if you want to enjoy Santa Maria del Popolo (after it reopens) in relative solitude, try coming before 8:00 a.m. More fun, though, is to do what the locals do: the passeggiata is a nightly occurrence. Locals come here to take their stroll, to see, and be seen. It's a good spot for night life, and this is a great starting point. Split the churches, walk down Via del Corso, and enjoy "La dolce vita," as Rick Steves would say.