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The foundations of the Science Centre Tower which has been plagued with problems since its opening. It is currently closed with no estimate of its re-opening.
Not the best photo I've ever taken but only had a brief few minutes to try and get as much as I could. This is looking down from the walkway directly at the base of the tower. To get a good idea of the size compare it with the jerrycans on the left.
Abandoned Scotland Online
I read that any resistors between 2.2KΩ and 3.3KΩ would work for this (as long as you use two of the same value). Measuring the total resistance of my potentiometer (3.5KΩ), I decided to use two of 2.2KΩ, but that's just a hunch...
Li que qualquer resistor entre 2.2KΩ e 3.3KΩ serverm para esta modificação (desde que você use dois de mesmo valor). Ao medir a resistência total do potenciômetro (3.5KΩ), optei por usar dois de 2.2KΩ, mas isso foi só um chute...
Remove the bottom cover. On this motor there was a lot of glue inside (I already removed a lot before taking this picture). It was also holding the motor in place, so I had to remove the solder to separate the board from the motor.
Remova a tampa de baixo. Neste motor havia muita cola (já tinha removido um bocado antes desta foto). Como a cola prendia o motor no lugar, foi preciso dessoldá-lo da placa.
I decided to sold the resistors on the board because it would be easier to change them if necessary. Take care to first see if you can put back the bottom cover without problems, though. Cut the three wires from the potentiometer and sold the resistors there or on the board. Remember also to sold again the motor on the board.
Preferi soldar os resistores direto na placa por ficar mais fácil de trocá-los depois, se necessário. Cuide que conseguirá colocar a tampa inferior de volta no lugar. Corte os três fios do potenciômetro e solde os resistores neles ou na placa, como preferir. Lembre também de soldar o motor à placa.
To make the servo rotate continuously, we must fool it to think the potentiometer is always in the middle position. One option is to just stuck it in place (see Flickr Dave's tutorial), but I choose to substitute it for two resistors. Now take a good look on the tree wires (brown, red and blue) on the potentiometer... we will need to remove them and solder the resistors between brown-red and red-blue.
Para o servo girar continuamente, precisamos fazê-lo pensar que o potenciômetro está sempre na posição central. Um modo de fazer isto é travando-o no lugar (veja o tutorial do Flickr Dave), mas prefiri substituí-lo por dois resistores. Repare nos fios do potenciômetro (marrom, vermelho e azul)... precisamos removê-los e soldar os resistores entre os fios marrom-vermelho e vermelho-azul.
A normal servo motor rotates less than 360 degrees (usually between 180° and 210°), but most servos can be changed for continuous rotation. This is useful for several applications (like robotics), and I'm doing this to pan a camera rig for kite aerial photography. There are different ways to do this, and I'll show yow how I changed a standard JR servo.
O eixo dos servo motores gira menos de 360 graus (normalmente entre 180° e 210°), mas a maioria deles pode ser alterada para rotação contínua. Esta modificação é muito aplicada em robótica, mas no meu caso servirá para rotacionar uma câmera que fará fotos aéreas com pipa. Existem diferentes formas de se fazer esta modificação, e mostrarei a que fiz no meu servo JR padrão.
Board loose. Now we begin to see the feedback potentiometer on the back. We also note that the colors of some of the cables going out are the same as of those connected on the board, but they are not always the same!
Placa solta. Começamos a ver o potenciômetro de feedback ao fundo. Também notamos que os cabos que saem do motor têm cores iguais aos presos à placa, mas não são necessariamente os mesmos!
As it was made of soft plastic, I just used a wire cutter to snip it out. As you can see, first I made a test on the top of the pin...
After this, just put back everything in place and test the motor. Enjoy your modified servo!
Como o pino era feito de um plástico macio, usei um alicate para cortá-lo. Como podem reparar, primeiro fiz um teste na ponta dele...
Depois disto, coloque tudo novamente em seu lugar e teste o motor. Aproveite seu novo e modificado servo!
References and links / Referências e links:
www.seattlerobotics.org/guide/servohack.html
mechatronics.mech.northwestern.edu/design_ref/actuators/s...
www.dprg.org/projects/1998-04b
www.flickr.com/photos/flickrdave/sets/72157594255943404/
arch.ced.berkeley.edu/kap2/php/wind/discuss/comments.php?...
Remove the top to see the reduction gears and feedback potentiometer. You don't mess with the gears, so just don't! But take a good look on them to be sure how/where they're supposed to be in case you need to put them in place when closing the motor.
Removendo a tampa vemos as engrenagens de redução e o potenciômetro de feedback. Não é preciso mexer nas engrenagens, portanto não mexa! Mas confira agora a posição delas caso elas saiam do lugar e precise recolocá-las antes de fechar o motor.
Be sure to work with the motor disconnect from everything (like the battery and receiver). Start by removing the four screws at the bottom.
Não deixe o motor conectado a nada (como bateria ou receptor) quando fizer a operação. Começe removendo os quatro parafusos da parte de baixo.
Now it's time to cut out the pin of the output gear...
Agora é hora de cortar o pino da engrenagem de saída...
On the top cover is the output gear. That pin on it is used both to drive the feedback potentiometer as also a mechanical stop (to prevent damage to it). We will need to cut it off later, but let's leave it as it is now.
Na tampa superior está a engrenagem de saída. Ela tem um pino que serve tanto para girar o potenciômetro de feedback quanto como parada mecânica (para evitar danos ao potenciômetro). Cortaremos esse pino mais tarde, mas deixe-o quieto por enquanto.
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