jmsaltzman
exampleRelayBoard_v10
My second printed board, this one much simpler-- a relay circuit for triggering via a microcontroller. 3-pin female header, L-R:
1) Signal
2) +
3) -
I'm happy to provide the complete EAGLE file if anybody is interested.
This uses a Futurlec JQC-3FF-05 relay, and I didn't drill the NC output pad-- just figured I should have a trace for it (?).
I think I turned around this board in under an hour, from the PDF. I'll never use perfboard again, if I don't have to!
UPDATE: re: mightohm's question: the process for making the pcb:
* switch layers in Eagle to display only the top layer, pads, and dimensions,
* "print" and save to PDF,
* in Photoshop, open the PDF at 1200dpi,
* run an action to fill the pad holes and make B+W,
* print with Samsung ML1740:
* 8.5x11 piece of paper with a glossy catalog page taped to it (Sur La Table fwiw),
* printer output set to "transparency" to (hopefully) get more toner,
* cut the pattern out of the middle of the page
* iron onto a slightly over-sized piece of single-sided copper-clad:
* lightly sand with ~220 grit (finest I had around) and cleaned with acetone,
* pre-heated board with iron (piece of paper in between) for ~30s,
* CAREFULLY drop the glossy printout onto the copper, then just as CAREFULLY drop on another (blank) piece of paper, then a paper towel on top of that,
* put the iron on and let it sit for ~30s,
* gently move the iron around, applying pressure for ~1 min,
* remove the paper towel and keep ironing on the paper over the glossy printout for another ~2-10 min (?), maybe moving it around.
* let board cool for a minute,
* drop board into a container with water,
* after a minute, pull paper off and gently scrub off the rest of the pulp with a toothbrush,
* fill gaps/dropouts with an etch-resistant pen,
* drop into ferric chloride bath for a few minutes, checking periodically,
* remove the board and drop immediately into a container with water,
* rinse,
* drill,
* solder,
* circuit check-- pretty much involves cutting solder and scraping down to the fiberglass where solder blobs bridge traces/pads.
* Bob == uncle.
exampleRelayBoard_v10
My second printed board, this one much simpler-- a relay circuit for triggering via a microcontroller. 3-pin female header, L-R:
1) Signal
2) +
3) -
I'm happy to provide the complete EAGLE file if anybody is interested.
This uses a Futurlec JQC-3FF-05 relay, and I didn't drill the NC output pad-- just figured I should have a trace for it (?).
I think I turned around this board in under an hour, from the PDF. I'll never use perfboard again, if I don't have to!
UPDATE: re: mightohm's question: the process for making the pcb:
* switch layers in Eagle to display only the top layer, pads, and dimensions,
* "print" and save to PDF,
* in Photoshop, open the PDF at 1200dpi,
* run an action to fill the pad holes and make B+W,
* print with Samsung ML1740:
* 8.5x11 piece of paper with a glossy catalog page taped to it (Sur La Table fwiw),
* printer output set to "transparency" to (hopefully) get more toner,
* cut the pattern out of the middle of the page
* iron onto a slightly over-sized piece of single-sided copper-clad:
* lightly sand with ~220 grit (finest I had around) and cleaned with acetone,
* pre-heated board with iron (piece of paper in between) for ~30s,
* CAREFULLY drop the glossy printout onto the copper, then just as CAREFULLY drop on another (blank) piece of paper, then a paper towel on top of that,
* put the iron on and let it sit for ~30s,
* gently move the iron around, applying pressure for ~1 min,
* remove the paper towel and keep ironing on the paper over the glossy printout for another ~2-10 min (?), maybe moving it around.
* let board cool for a minute,
* drop board into a container with water,
* after a minute, pull paper off and gently scrub off the rest of the pulp with a toothbrush,
* fill gaps/dropouts with an etch-resistant pen,
* drop into ferric chloride bath for a few minutes, checking periodically,
* remove the board and drop immediately into a container with water,
* rinse,
* drill,
* solder,
* circuit check-- pretty much involves cutting solder and scraping down to the fiberglass where solder blobs bridge traces/pads.
* Bob == uncle.