Shrinking Away
Barichara is considered to be the best example of a colonial village (at least according to one of the colombianas I met along the way…and Lonely Planet seems to speak very highly of the town as well.)
It’s a town in east-central Colombia, in the department of Santander, whose capital is Bucaramanga. To get there from where I’m living at the moment is about a 9 hour bus ride…even though it’s barely 300 km away. (Hello, winding mountain roads, and thank you for reintroducing me to nausea.) The ride over the mountain range is rather spectacular, but literally, with curves on average of every 15-30 seconds and few stops…it’s literally quite dizzying after a few hours. Also, since we didn’t make any stops along the way, there’s not a single picture in this set to represent the actual road trip.
My roommate and I struck out from Cúcuta around 3:00 on a Friday afternoon and spent one night in Bucaramanga, getting to the hotel there around 9:00 in the evening. Since I was nauseous, I didn’t make it out in Buca, unfortunately, though my roommate met one of his friends and they had a good time drinking and catching up.
Saturday morning, we left around 10:30 and had another bus ride – much shorter at about 2-3 hours and it wasn’t completely mountain road like the drive from Friday. That took us to the town of San Gil, about 100 km west of Bucaramanga.
San Gil is a good destination in its own right. It’s supposedly the adventure capital of Colombia (wholesome adventure, that is…or safe adventure). It’s the area to come if you’re interested in rafting, paragliding, etc. The town is pretty small and there’s some nice colonial architecture. We had lunch here since it looked to be an interesting enough place to spend an hour or two, then paid a taxi driver 37,000 pesos (about $12) to take us the 20 km from San Gil to Barichara. By that point, we’d had enough buses.
Finally, around 24 hours after we’d left Cúcuta, we arrived in the center of colonial Barichara. Our driver dropped us off at the northeast corner of the main square. Our guesthouse (and a rather comfortable guesthouse at that) was only a block away, half a block south from the southeast corner of the square. It was called Color de Hormiga and was at once comfortable, convenient, affordable ($30/night) and very hospitable. There’s no breakfast included in the stay – there’s no restaurant on site – but, they do provide coffee (for those who like it, which seems to be everyone in the world besides me) and the courtyard is very quiet and charming.
Saturday night’s sunset provided a very photogenic sky, though I was too tired (and, really, not thinking quickly enough) to ask about where to go to see it upon arriving after having traveled for that much time to get there. So, I saw the remains of the day from the main square and wondered what might have been.
We spent the better part of the evening just east of the northeast corner of the square; there were a few – at least three – decent bars in a row there and they were relaxing places to hang out. We had a few drinks, then wandered north of the square (uphill) for a few blocks towards one of the at least 4 chapels in this small town before cutting over a block and back down to the main cathedral on the square…before heading straight back to the bar – this time for a bite to eat. I wasn’t hungry, though, so just sat and enjoyed the music.
Sunday was the only full day we’d have here. I woke up early enough to catch the town before there were too many people wandering around. Barichara is really less than 10 blocks by 10 blocks (give or take) and it’s set on a ridge overlooking a gorgeous valley to the west.
Wandering alone in the morning, I started at the main square, including a few shots inside the main cathedral there before heading due west and slightly uphill towards the ridgeline. En route to the ridgeline, I passed another chapel (which I didn’t enter) that was attached to a cemetery (which I did enter). It was a nice cemetery with an unusually high number of fake floral arrangements. That struck me as a little odd considering Colombia is one of the highest exporters of flowers in the world. At any rate, it was a nice few minutes to reflect, especially since my mother (who also happens to be about the only one who would regularly look at any of this writing/posting that you’re reading) passed away only a few days before.
From the cemetery, I walked west the last black to Calle 1 (Calle del mirador) which is the one that crests the ridgeline overlooking the Cañón del Río Suárez (Saravita). When I got here, I realized this would’ve been a fabulous place to have seen the sunset the previous night – though I’m also certain it would have been VERY crowded, too.
At 9:00 in the morning, with the sun at my back, I just found myself overlooking a somewhat hazy valley…though not hazy enough to completely obscure the view. Walking along Viewpoint Road, I stopped at both pavilions and also at the Simón Bolivar statue which is at the head of El camino real (Royal Road) which connects Barichara to the much smaller colonial town of Guane about 5-6 km mostly downhill.
For the moment, I bypassed the trail and continued along Calle 1 to Santa Barbara Chapel and its attached art park (which left a lot to be desired). From there, it was a 6 block walk straight downhill to the guesthouse, with a stop next to the square for what I would consider an adequate (at best) breakfast.
After resting a few minutes at the guesthouse, my roommate showed up and we decided to walk to Guane via El camino real. (The heat wasn’t oppressive in the least and, since it was downhill…no big deal. Though my roommate is in much better shape than I, we still deliberated about whether or not to do this and, in the end, decided to go simply because there wasn’t much to see or do in Barichara.)
We left Color de Hormiga and made our way back to Calle 1 via San Antonio Chapel which was 2 blocks down the street and one block west on Carrera 4/Calle 5. It was the least imposing of the chapels, though still pleasant. (Like the Jesus Chapel next to the cemetery, we didn’t enter; I only entered the Church of the Immaculate Conception on the main square and the Santa Barbara Chapel at the top of the hill.)
Passing by, we just enjoyed walking the streets and eventually made our way to the trailhead next to our man Bolivar. The walk down to Guane, according to everything I read, was about “an hour walk.” It’s advertised as just under 5K, though one of the locals said it’s a little over 6. In my opinion, that’s a good walking/running pace…if you happen to be on flat ground or even pavement. This trail, however, was mostly rocks/boulders which would slow down most normal folks. The views of the valley were quite good, and we caught occasional glimpses of random lizards and birds (South American cardinals twice). We also stopped at Señor Esteban’s house on the way down for a few sodas and some fresh papaya. We hung out there for close to an hour, it seemed.
By that point, I was more interested in seeing the sunset and, as the day was getting long in the tooth, I talked my roomie into grabbing a taxi, bus, anything up the hill back to town. One of the other hikers at Esteban’s told us nothing really came by and it was easier to walk the last 40 minutes down to Guane (which was still about 3 km away) and just catch a bus there. Those 40 minutes turned out to be more than an hour.
As an aside, I’d like to mention the culinary delicacy of Barichara. They are quite proud of their hormigas culonas. (This literally translates to “fat-bottomed ants,” and yes…they eat them.) They’re considered to be an aphrodisiac. I mention this now because my roommate and I kept joking that we were stepping on someone’s dinner once in a while on the path.
When we arrived in Guane, we probably stayed less than 15 minutes. We walked to their main square, snapped a quick picture of the cathedral there, and then set to finding someone to negotiate a ride with to head back up to Barichara. We paid a guy (who seemed happier than a pig in slop) 25,000 to drive us the 9 km up the road to Barichara where he dropped us at Calle 1 and we watched what was a much cloudier and less-than-spectacular (compared with Saturday’s) sunset.
As I suspected, even with a “subpar” sunset, there were quite a few people at the pavilion. We didn’t stay until the end and just walked back down to our room for quick showers then dinner next to the main cathedral (underwhelming Italian) and a drink at the bar two doors down from where we’d been on Saturday night. (Of the three, this is the only one that was exclusively a bar; the others had limited menus.)
Monday morning brought an early start since we were doing the return trip all in one stretch. We were in a taxi by 7:30 and eventually got out at our apartment around 6:00 in the evening. For a first photo shoot in Colombia, I was pretty happy with how this turned out, though am looking forward to the next one in Cartagena in about 3 weeks.
Shrinking Away
Barichara is considered to be the best example of a colonial village (at least according to one of the colombianas I met along the way…and Lonely Planet seems to speak very highly of the town as well.)
It’s a town in east-central Colombia, in the department of Santander, whose capital is Bucaramanga. To get there from where I’m living at the moment is about a 9 hour bus ride…even though it’s barely 300 km away. (Hello, winding mountain roads, and thank you for reintroducing me to nausea.) The ride over the mountain range is rather spectacular, but literally, with curves on average of every 15-30 seconds and few stops…it’s literally quite dizzying after a few hours. Also, since we didn’t make any stops along the way, there’s not a single picture in this set to represent the actual road trip.
My roommate and I struck out from Cúcuta around 3:00 on a Friday afternoon and spent one night in Bucaramanga, getting to the hotel there around 9:00 in the evening. Since I was nauseous, I didn’t make it out in Buca, unfortunately, though my roommate met one of his friends and they had a good time drinking and catching up.
Saturday morning, we left around 10:30 and had another bus ride – much shorter at about 2-3 hours and it wasn’t completely mountain road like the drive from Friday. That took us to the town of San Gil, about 100 km west of Bucaramanga.
San Gil is a good destination in its own right. It’s supposedly the adventure capital of Colombia (wholesome adventure, that is…or safe adventure). It’s the area to come if you’re interested in rafting, paragliding, etc. The town is pretty small and there’s some nice colonial architecture. We had lunch here since it looked to be an interesting enough place to spend an hour or two, then paid a taxi driver 37,000 pesos (about $12) to take us the 20 km from San Gil to Barichara. By that point, we’d had enough buses.
Finally, around 24 hours after we’d left Cúcuta, we arrived in the center of colonial Barichara. Our driver dropped us off at the northeast corner of the main square. Our guesthouse (and a rather comfortable guesthouse at that) was only a block away, half a block south from the southeast corner of the square. It was called Color de Hormiga and was at once comfortable, convenient, affordable ($30/night) and very hospitable. There’s no breakfast included in the stay – there’s no restaurant on site – but, they do provide coffee (for those who like it, which seems to be everyone in the world besides me) and the courtyard is very quiet and charming.
Saturday night’s sunset provided a very photogenic sky, though I was too tired (and, really, not thinking quickly enough) to ask about where to go to see it upon arriving after having traveled for that much time to get there. So, I saw the remains of the day from the main square and wondered what might have been.
We spent the better part of the evening just east of the northeast corner of the square; there were a few – at least three – decent bars in a row there and they were relaxing places to hang out. We had a few drinks, then wandered north of the square (uphill) for a few blocks towards one of the at least 4 chapels in this small town before cutting over a block and back down to the main cathedral on the square…before heading straight back to the bar – this time for a bite to eat. I wasn’t hungry, though, so just sat and enjoyed the music.
Sunday was the only full day we’d have here. I woke up early enough to catch the town before there were too many people wandering around. Barichara is really less than 10 blocks by 10 blocks (give or take) and it’s set on a ridge overlooking a gorgeous valley to the west.
Wandering alone in the morning, I started at the main square, including a few shots inside the main cathedral there before heading due west and slightly uphill towards the ridgeline. En route to the ridgeline, I passed another chapel (which I didn’t enter) that was attached to a cemetery (which I did enter). It was a nice cemetery with an unusually high number of fake floral arrangements. That struck me as a little odd considering Colombia is one of the highest exporters of flowers in the world. At any rate, it was a nice few minutes to reflect, especially since my mother (who also happens to be about the only one who would regularly look at any of this writing/posting that you’re reading) passed away only a few days before.
From the cemetery, I walked west the last black to Calle 1 (Calle del mirador) which is the one that crests the ridgeline overlooking the Cañón del Río Suárez (Saravita). When I got here, I realized this would’ve been a fabulous place to have seen the sunset the previous night – though I’m also certain it would have been VERY crowded, too.
At 9:00 in the morning, with the sun at my back, I just found myself overlooking a somewhat hazy valley…though not hazy enough to completely obscure the view. Walking along Viewpoint Road, I stopped at both pavilions and also at the Simón Bolivar statue which is at the head of El camino real (Royal Road) which connects Barichara to the much smaller colonial town of Guane about 5-6 km mostly downhill.
For the moment, I bypassed the trail and continued along Calle 1 to Santa Barbara Chapel and its attached art park (which left a lot to be desired). From there, it was a 6 block walk straight downhill to the guesthouse, with a stop next to the square for what I would consider an adequate (at best) breakfast.
After resting a few minutes at the guesthouse, my roommate showed up and we decided to walk to Guane via El camino real. (The heat wasn’t oppressive in the least and, since it was downhill…no big deal. Though my roommate is in much better shape than I, we still deliberated about whether or not to do this and, in the end, decided to go simply because there wasn’t much to see or do in Barichara.)
We left Color de Hormiga and made our way back to Calle 1 via San Antonio Chapel which was 2 blocks down the street and one block west on Carrera 4/Calle 5. It was the least imposing of the chapels, though still pleasant. (Like the Jesus Chapel next to the cemetery, we didn’t enter; I only entered the Church of the Immaculate Conception on the main square and the Santa Barbara Chapel at the top of the hill.)
Passing by, we just enjoyed walking the streets and eventually made our way to the trailhead next to our man Bolivar. The walk down to Guane, according to everything I read, was about “an hour walk.” It’s advertised as just under 5K, though one of the locals said it’s a little over 6. In my opinion, that’s a good walking/running pace…if you happen to be on flat ground or even pavement. This trail, however, was mostly rocks/boulders which would slow down most normal folks. The views of the valley were quite good, and we caught occasional glimpses of random lizards and birds (South American cardinals twice). We also stopped at Señor Esteban’s house on the way down for a few sodas and some fresh papaya. We hung out there for close to an hour, it seemed.
By that point, I was more interested in seeing the sunset and, as the day was getting long in the tooth, I talked my roomie into grabbing a taxi, bus, anything up the hill back to town. One of the other hikers at Esteban’s told us nothing really came by and it was easier to walk the last 40 minutes down to Guane (which was still about 3 km away) and just catch a bus there. Those 40 minutes turned out to be more than an hour.
As an aside, I’d like to mention the culinary delicacy of Barichara. They are quite proud of their hormigas culonas. (This literally translates to “fat-bottomed ants,” and yes…they eat them.) They’re considered to be an aphrodisiac. I mention this now because my roommate and I kept joking that we were stepping on someone’s dinner once in a while on the path.
When we arrived in Guane, we probably stayed less than 15 minutes. We walked to their main square, snapped a quick picture of the cathedral there, and then set to finding someone to negotiate a ride with to head back up to Barichara. We paid a guy (who seemed happier than a pig in slop) 25,000 to drive us the 9 km up the road to Barichara where he dropped us at Calle 1 and we watched what was a much cloudier and less-than-spectacular (compared with Saturday’s) sunset.
As I suspected, even with a “subpar” sunset, there were quite a few people at the pavilion. We didn’t stay until the end and just walked back down to our room for quick showers then dinner next to the main cathedral (underwhelming Italian) and a drink at the bar two doors down from where we’d been on Saturday night. (Of the three, this is the only one that was exclusively a bar; the others had limited menus.)
Monday morning brought an early start since we were doing the return trip all in one stretch. We were in a taxi by 7:30 and eventually got out at our apartment around 6:00 in the evening. For a first photo shoot in Colombia, I was pretty happy with how this turned out, though am looking forward to the next one in Cartagena in about 3 weeks.